Talking to some other sailors had got us interested in Saba, part of the Netherlands, and a little research confirmed that this tiny island, essentially a circular rock 2.5 miles across, 2855 feet high,  was a place we really wanted to visit. Facilities for visiting yachts amount to a few mooring buoys, limited anchoring spots and one place - the only small commercial port on the South coast - where it is now possible to get ashore by tender. The port area is at one of two main settlements on Saba, delightfully named “The Bottom”. The other is called “Windward Side” which, as one would expect, is on the East of the island. They are linked by “The Road” which is the only road on the island. 

Friday 28th February

We checked-out from Statia promptly at 8am to set-off on the 18 miles or so to Saba. A catamaran had left just before us motoring directly for Saba and as we were raising the anchor another yacht was setting sail and clearly heading the same way.

We started sailing in a direct line to Saba but the wind direction was such that we were close-hauled and not going very fast so we turned away from the wind, eased the sheets and had a fun, fast sail (albeit not in the “right” direction) for a couple of hours, easily getting ahead of the other yacht which was resolutely sailing the shortest route. A few miles out we put on the engine and motor-sailed, close-hauled, to Saba’s port which, it turned out had only 2 mooring buoys in place, one of which was occupied by the cat’. We took the 2ndone and the third yacht, when it arrived, had to anchor in what proved to be a very uncomfortable spot.

Amanda had arranged a couple of nights ashore in El Momo cottages in Windward Side, so we packed our hiking-boots and poles and a few other essentials before a very choppy tender ride ashore. The accommodation was sweet, if a little tired, run by a very friendly Dutch couple. The view was great, and we were surprised, but pleased, to find that we could just see Ernestina on her mooring buoy from our bedroom window!

 View from El Momo - Ernestina is a tiny dot just left of centre 

Saturday 29th February

Saba is famous for its dive sites but we we are here for the hiking; there are several excellent routes on the island. Before The Road was built theses tracks and trails were how people got around. The main hill, by far the biggest, is called Mount Scenery and to climb this was our job today! 

We started our climb up what is essentially a very long stone staircase which covered the first half of the ascent – 1064 stairs or so the guide says! After that the path becomes more of a scramble with muddy sections and boulder strewn stretches; at this point the heavens opened, with a typical tropical shower, and we got absolutely drenched in the space of 90 seconds despite seeking shelter under the giant houseplants at the side of the trail. 

We made it to the top in thick cloud, so the alleged stunning views were not available. Still, we had had good walk.

There are, however, two view-points at Mt Scenery, a few hundred yards apart, and having come this far we thought we had better go the second one which, being a few feet taller, is the highest point in the Netherlands. The final ascent to the peak was a tricky rope section which Amanda didn’t fancy so Nick went on up alone. The view was much the same. But then.... is the cloud thinning a little? Is that a bit of blue sky? Yes! And suddenly the vista was opening. Amanda was persuaded to climb the rope and was glad she did; the views were superb.

For the descent we had various options and, of course, took the long route. This involved a trail called the Elfin Forest which goes down to the Sandy Cruz Trail. Sandy Cruz essentially circumnavigates the northern side of Mt Scenery and ends up in The Bottom shortly after passing the Queen’s Garden Hotel which is recommended as a place for a well-earned drink. 

The Elfin Forest was steep and VERY muddy in places, going through dense and interesting rain-forest before joining the more sedate Sandy Cruz Trail. We reached the hotel gasping for a refreshing cup of tea to be told they had a wedding starting in 15 minutes and they were therefore closed to the public!

We carried on to The Bottom contemplating a thirsty walk on The Road back to Windward Side when, by sheer luck, a taxi driver who Amanda had spoken to at the port the day before came by. He was taking another couple to El Momo so we jumped in for a cut-price ride back there.

Sunday 1st March

We checked-out of El Momo, took a taxi to The Bottom and, leaving our bags with a friendly restaurant owner set-off on another walk, this time the Mid-island Trail, a delightful coast path through the wooded lower slopes of Saba. The path was closed after a couple of miles due to a landslide, so we retraced our steps and part-way back descended “The Ladder”, another stone staircase, leading to a tiny beach which was the only point of access in old days. Small boats would take people and goods to and from larger vessels at anchor with everything being man-handled on and off in breaking waves. The old Customs House is about 2/3 of the way down The Ladder. It was a steep, tiring walk even with the steps and it’s slightly mind-boggling to think that people had to carry everything up or down this way, yes, including a piano, on more than one occasion we assume.

We returned to Ernestina for the night and had probably the most uncomfortable night on a mooring buoy. We realised afterwards that, unusually for the Caribbean, there is a meaningful tidal stream around Saba. This meant that, rather than lying to the wind and having a steady swell passing under the boat from bow to stern, we were being turned through the wind with the swell hitting the hull at an everchanging angle resulting in a horrible “cork-screw” motion, rather like that we had experienced on the Atlantic crossing at times as a consequence of conflicting wave-trains. 

Monday 2nd March

We checked-out with Customs and Immigration 1st thing and set sail for St Barthélemy (St Barts). 

Saba photos here......

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mAqRTm5aDXqQVJHX7