John writes….. Over the past year,
whenever we have told people that we planned to visit Cuba, Americans
have been so envious - as they
are not allowed to visit easily. All have asked us to write of our impressions.
Caroline, in a separate blog,
has written of our general and specific impressions of this fascinating
country. But on behalf of both of us, I am writing, as Nigel Calder who wrote
the definitive cruising guide to Cuba felt compelled to do, of the political
situation we found. I quote – and am indebted to him and to others. It is
a fascinating story.
To see where we are now, we
have to look back at the history of Cuba since about 1952. Then an army
sergeant named Batista , who had been in power on and off since 1933 with at
least the tacit support of the US
returned to Cuba
for a reign of open brutal dictatorship in which the police and armed forces
ran amok, with torture and murder commonplace. In 1956 a charismatic young
radical politician named Fidel Castro, and his younger brother Raoul landed
back in Cuba from Mexico with a
handful of others, were initially repelled, but then escaped to the hills to
gather support. 1959 they were able to enter Havana in triumph.
The popular revolution
inherited an economy in ruins, and moreover one that had been seriously
distorted to serve the interests of foreign investors, tourists and gamblers
rather than the indigenous population. Castro and his comrades initiated
radical steps to change the direction of the economy. Over the course of the
next year, an almost continuous diplomatic duel took place between Castro and
the US, during which the Castro regime expropriated many of the larger land
holdings and then took over three American - owned oil refineries (for their
refusal to refine a shipment of Soviet oil – the Soviets were beginning
to cautiously move into the breach between Cuba and the US). The US responded to
these moves by imposing an economic embargo, which has not been lifted to this
day.
With the loss of its principal
overseas trading partner, Cuba
was thrown into the arms of the Soviets, who were more than happy to subsidize
the new regime in return for an outpost on the very doorstep of the United States.
(Havana is a mere 90 miles from Florida). Perhaps
inevitably, although Cuba took on (and still has today) many of the trappings
of the former East European communist states, there are, nevertheless,
fundamental differences between Cuba and these states in as much as the Cuban
revolution was a genuinely popular revolution which still retains a fair
measure of loyalty amongst the population. For example, the notable historian
Hugh Thomas wrote: “….the break
from corrupt officials, corrupt judiciary, corrupt politicians, corrupt
unionists and corrupt men of business was, in the minds of the majority, a
stark, extraordinary, maybe baffling, but wonderful contrast”
Following severe shortages in
the years immediately after the revolution, and in spite of the inherent
inefficiencies of a centralized, state run economy, the combination of the
undoubted idealism of the revolution and the Soviet subsidy finally produced
the most egalitarian, best educated society in the Caribbean and Central
America, with an enviable public health system, little unemployment, and until
recently, a relatively high standard of living.
However, with the collapse of
the Soviet Union in 1990, Cuba
lost its subsidy and all its major trading partners; the economic glue of
modern Cuba
dissolved. The economy was again reduced to a shambles, with severe shortages
of oil to basic foodstuffs; the American embargo, which was largely ineffective
so long as Russia and its
allies filled the economic gap, finally had a severe impact by preventing Cuba from
developing trade links with its natural partner. Overnight Cuba had lost
its markets for sugar cane, and its supply of oil, fertilizer, animal feeds and
grains.
To feed the population and
maintain minimal sugar cane production, the government has been forced to adopt
pre-revolutionary agricultural methods, including widespread use of ox- and
horse-drawn ploughs and carts.
And this is what you see today:
a land of shortages and a people operating in what to us is a baffling
centralized economy. Everyone is employed by the state. Every shop and almost
every restaurant is owned and run by the state. Almost all employees seem to be
paid the same – a mixture of National Peso plus a few Convertible Pesos -
barely enough to get by on. Part of the payment is ration cards. Basic
foodstuffs are heavily subsidized . But we found a courteous, friendly people,
charming and willing to work. It is an ordered society, where people put up
with hardships – the worst of which is a terrible housing shortage (there
are no private landlords, and several generations often have to share very
basic accommodation together). But the people look healthy and adequately fed.
But the trade and oil embargo
is clearly hurting a lot - not the Castro brothers - who time will take shortly
anyway - but the ordinary decent Cubans.
Wherever one goes around the
world, it is to the United
States one finds that people want to
emigrate - for its open society, its freedoms and its economic prosperity. We
have loved the past year in which we have been privileged to travel from Maine to Florida
and before that through the mountains to the west coast. We have made many new
friends.
But it is difficult not to
think that this continuing trade and visitor embargo on Cuba is a
mistaken relic from 50 years ago. The world has moved on. There are,
apparently, some 3 million people of Cuban origin living in the US today. There
are about 11 million people living in Cuba today. There is a natural
geographical proximity. By ending the embargo – and soon – Cuba will have
a chance to start recovering. It will, I am sure, welcome American visitors
warmly, and tourism will help to revive its still basic economy. Oil supplies,
and the resumption of free trade with the US will soon allow its people to
enjoy a higher standard of living. America will have a new best friend
on its doorstep – and for little cost. This is a prize of hearts and
minds that is there for the taking. Political change will naturally follow
improving economic prosperity.
The alternative, and if the
lessons of history are allowed to be forgotten – is that others will fill
the vacuum that has been created. Already apparently there are joint ventures
planned with the Chinese. Canada
and Europe are also taking an interest. We can
but hope that this administration will act courageously and end the embargo as
soon as possible.
It is unlikely that anyone of
influence in the US State Dept. will
read this…but in this internet age…one can but hope!
In the meanwhile, to all our
American friends – go as soon as you can. You will find a fascinating and
very Spanish country on your doorstep. Havana,
in particular, is a gem – which is gradually being restored. There is
still much to restore. There are beautiful tree lined avenues leading from
Marina Hemingway to Havana.
There is music and art – ballet and flamenco, there are beautiful
courtyards and squares to explore. Initially it certainly won’t be a
gastronomic feast…but you won’t starve either! Take a trip to the
hills – we did and it was lovely. If you are sailing – I think we would
recommend mooring in Marina Hemingway – and travelling by land. The
official (and completely pointless) paperwork at every stop rather detracts
from the pleasure of cruising. However, the officials were charming…and a
delight to meet. Our lives have been enriched by our brief visit.