So much of the Bahamas is just is as it has always been – hundreds of low-lying islands, topped with vegetation and edged by white beaches. Defining the boundaries of this commonwealth of gems is the meeting of the seemingly fathomless, deep-blue Atlantic Ocean and the dazzling turquoise waters of the shallows within the archipelago. Crossing the line between the two can be very abrupt – taking just a minute to go from a depth of 500 metres to 5, the transition often causing strong currents. Once within the islands the water is so clear that you can navigate by the colour of the water and the seabed - deep blue is safe; aquamarine is probably alright, but use caution; white is definitely too shallow; brown is coral and dangerous.  Even so, the nerves are tested when the depth sounder goes to 0.2m under the keels, 0.1m, 0.0m…..!

Spread over 350 miles, the islands are grouped with the Grand Bahamas and Abacos in the north, then dropping south to the Berry Islands and the Exumas.  In the east Eleuthera, Cat Island, Long Island, Little San Salvador, Crooked Island and Long Cay form the Far Bahamas, with Andros Island to the west, although this is not a destination for yachties. Most islands are long and narrow.  For example, Eleuthera is 110 miles long, 4 miles across its widest point, with just a bridge linking the neck of the island and forming the division between ocean and shallows.

Since leaving the pretty town of Little Harbour on Great Abaco Island, we have visited Harbour Island, Eleuthera, (apparently where the ‘beautiful people’ go), passed through a very sleepy Spanish Wells (it was New Year) and called in to the bustling town of Governor’s Harbour on Eleuthera, where we managed to not only post some letters, but buy both bread and gear box oil.  For the rest of the time we have been either the only yacht in the bay or in the company of just one of two others.  I don’t know whether there are fewer cruising people than I expected or there are just far more islands (cays) to visit than I realised. Either way, we had a very special time when friends joined us at the New Year anchored in a secluded bay which had a fine, sandy beach.

Although we were the only people at the restaurant, we have just had a good lunch of conch fritters and lobster, sat in the sunshine overlooking the tiny harbour of Little Farmers Cay.  Since arriving in the Bahamas on the 19^th December we have eaten ashore only once, not because our culinary skills are so great that we have no rivals, but because there just are no restaurants in the places we have explored.

Lack of provisions is not a problem as we have excellent stocks on board, but it is a very good job that we haven’t been relying on our fishing skills.  We have sought advice, bought extra lures and an Hawaiian sling (sort of spear gun), tried fishing at different times of the day and read some of ‘The Cruisers’ Handbook of Fishing’…. all to no avail until, that is, two days ago when John reeled in a Mahi-Mahi:  Great excitement and three delicious meals! He is now inspired.

I haven’t yet worked out how the economy stacks up in the Bahamas.  It seems that many enterprises have come and gone, and the global recession has bitten deep here. Privateering and piracy were hugely profitable in the late 1600s and 1700s. The Bahamas thrived during the American Civil War as a haven to Confederate blockade-runners. In the mid 1800s the sponge industry started when a shipwrecked Frenchman exported the first sponges to Paris. 1917 saw the Bahamian industry peak with over 1m pounds of sponges exported – over a quarter of the world’s output. It involved over 600 schooners and sloops and 6000 local fishermen. However, the concern of overfishing became academic when in the last two months of 1938 a fungal disease wiped out 99% of the sponges. Prohibition in the States greatly boosted the economy between 1919 and 1933:  Nassau boomed with hotels, bars and gambling.  The 1950s saw a tourist property boom, but economic success of the 60s and 70s was tainted with the spoils of drug-trafficking. Since then?  Well, the economy can still rely on warm winter weather, crystal-clear turquoise waters and sports fishing to attract the tourists and cruising yachties. The locals may not have much money, but they seem to take pride in their homes and welcome you to their community with a warm smile.