The western Rias are definitely softer and more open that those of the north, although they are more encumbered with a vast number of mussel rafts dominating what would otherwise be beautiful bays. Still, with its easy cruising, off-lying islands and many glorious beaches, it’s no wonder that the area is a popular holiday destination.  It is definitely very Spanish though – we have not come across any other foreigners and very few locals seem to speak English at all.

Having to immerse yourself in everything Spanish is great.  With the excuse of my Birthday we went to a posh-looking restaurant last night. This was at nine o’clock at night – quite late you might say – but in fact the restaurant doesn’t open until nine, and it didn’t start filling up until 10.30pm. We really couldn’t understand anything but the odd word on the menu and, although prepared to stab at a couple of things and hope for the best, the waitress took pity on us, disappeared and then presented us with the receptionist from the local hotel.  She gallantly tried to explain various dishes, but in the end decided that the best option was just to present us with an array of local dishes, divided between the two of us.  All the dishes were delicious with wonderful combinations of flavours and textures, but the most memorable was the local scallop pie with flaxy pastry that just melted in your mouth.

Today we felt adventurous and caught the bus (like the train: efficient and cheap) to the fairly large city of Pontevedra.  It was a 30 minute ride along the north coast of the ria.  A lot of the core of the city is medieval, and it was a delight to wander around the myriad of stone-paved streets, all of which are free of traffic. Winding alleyways with stone steps leading up to overhanging verandas of wrought iron; small tapas bars and tavernas with their tables and chairs spilling in to the open spaces where streets cross; a formal square – flanked on one side by a monastery, the other by a civic building fronted with stone arches and the typical gallerias, but definitely a place to be enjoyed with its central gardens and plenty of places to sit and watch the world go by. So we did exactly that – sit in the glorious spring sunshine, enjoy a few tapas and do some people watching.

The Spanish are a proud race and very smart.  If my lack of a buffoned hair-do alone didn’t make us stand out, then John’s lack of a razor-edge pressing of his trousers would.  I love the way they just promenade in the evenings – not necessarily going anywhere to do anything – just walking along the town front, very smartly dressed, watching other people who are doing just the same.  Not only are the little children exquisitely dressed in totally co-ordinated outfits, they are content and playing outside a tapas bar or sitting quietly in a restaurant even at 11 o’clock at night.