John writes….. Over the past year, whenever we have told people that we planned to visit Cuba, Americans have been so envious - as they are not allowed to visit easily. All have asked us to write of our impressions.

Caroline, in a separate blog, has written of our general and specific impressions of this fascinating country. But on behalf of both of us, I am writing, as Nigel Calder who wrote the definitive cruising guide to Cuba felt compelled to do, of the political situation we found. I quote – and am indebted to him and to others. It is a fascinating story.

To see where we are now, we have to look back at the history of Cuba since about 1952. Then an army sergeant named Batista , who had been in power on and off since 1933 with at least the tacit support of the US returned to Cuba for a reign of open brutal dictatorship in which the police and armed  forces ran amok, with torture and murder commonplace. In 1956 a charismatic young radical politician named Fidel Castro, and his younger brother Raoul landed back in Cuba from Mexico with a handful of others, were initially repelled, but then escaped to the hills to gather support. 1959 they were able to enter Havana in triumph.

The popular revolution inherited an economy in ruins, and moreover one that had been seriously distorted to serve the interests of foreign investors, tourists and gamblers rather than the indigenous population. Castro and his comrades initiated radical steps to change the direction of the economy. Over the course of the next year, an almost continuous diplomatic duel took place between Castro and the US, during which the Castro regime expropriated many of the larger land holdings and then took over three American - owned oil refineries (for their refusal to refine a shipment of Soviet oil – the Soviets were beginning to cautiously move into the breach between Cuba and the US). The US responded to these moves by imposing an economic embargo, which has not been lifted to this day.

With the loss of its principal overseas trading partner, Cuba was thrown into the arms of the Soviets, who were more than happy to subsidize the new regime in return for an outpost on the very doorstep of the United States. (Havana is a mere 90 miles from Florida). Perhaps inevitably, although Cuba took on (and still has today) many of the trappings of the former  East European communist  states, there are, nevertheless, fundamental differences between Cuba and these states in as much as the Cuban revolution was a genuinely  popular revolution which still retains a fair measure of loyalty amongst the population. For example, the notable historian Hugh Thomas wrote: “….the break from corrupt officials, corrupt judiciary, corrupt politicians, corrupt unionists and corrupt men of business was, in the minds of the majority, a stark, extraordinary, maybe baffling, but wonderful contrast”

Following severe shortages in the years immediately after the revolution, and in spite of the inherent inefficiencies of a centralized, state run economy, the combination of the undoubted idealism of the revolution and the Soviet subsidy finally produced the most egalitarian, best educated society in the Caribbean and Central America, with an enviable public health system, little unemployment, and until recently, a relatively high standard of living.

However, with the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1990, Cuba lost its subsidy and all its major trading partners; the economic glue of modern Cuba dissolved. The economy was again reduced to a shambles, with severe shortages of oil to basic foodstuffs; the American embargo, which was largely ineffective so long as Russia and its allies filled the economic gap, finally had a severe impact by preventing Cuba from developing trade links with its natural partner. Overnight Cuba had lost its markets for sugar cane, and its supply of oil, fertilizer, animal feeds and grains.

To feed the population and maintain minimal sugar cane production, the government has been forced to adopt pre-revolutionary agricultural methods, including widespread use of ox- and horse-drawn ploughs and carts.

And this is what you see today: a land of shortages and a people operating in what to us is a baffling centralized economy. Everyone is employed by the state. Every shop and almost every restaurant is owned and run by the state. Almost all employees seem to be paid the same – a mixture of National Peso plus a few Convertible Pesos - barely enough to get by on. Part of the payment is ration cards. Basic foodstuffs are heavily subsidized .  But we found a courteous, friendly people, charming and willing to work.  It is an ordered society, where people put up with hardships – the worst of which is a terrible housing shortage (there are no private landlords, and several generations often have to share very basic accommodation together). But the people look healthy and adequately fed.

But the trade and oil embargo is clearly hurting a lot - not the Castro brothers - who time will take shortly anyway - but the ordinary decent Cubans.

Wherever one goes around the world, it is to the United States one finds that people want to emigrate - for its open society, its freedoms and its economic prosperity. We have loved the past year in which we have been privileged to travel from Maine to Florida and before that through the mountains to the west coast. We have made many new friends.

But it is difficult not to think that this continuing trade and visitor embargo on Cuba is a mistaken relic from 50 years ago.  The world has moved on. There are, apparently, some 3 million people of Cuban origin living in the US today. There are about 11 million people living in Cuba today. There is a natural geographical proximity. By ending the embargo – and soon – Cuba will have a chance to start recovering.  It will, I am sure, welcome American visitors warmly, and tourism will help to revive its still basic economy. Oil supplies, and the resumption of free trade with the US will soon allow its people to enjoy a higher standard of living. America will have a new best friend on its doorstep – and for little cost. This is a prize of hearts and minds that is there for the taking.  Political change will naturally follow improving economic prosperity.

The alternative, and if the lessons of history are allowed to be forgotten – is that others will fill the vacuum that has been created. Already apparently there are joint ventures planned with the Chinese.  Canada and Europe are also taking an interest. We can but hope that this administration will act courageously and end the embargo as soon as possible.

It is unlikely that anyone of influence in the US State Dept. will read this…but in this internet age…one can but hope!

In the meanwhile, to all our American friends – go as soon as you can. You will find a fascinating and very Spanish country on your doorstep. Havana, in particular, is a gem – which is gradually being restored.  There is still much to restore. There are beautiful tree lined avenues leading from Marina Hemingway to Havana. There is music and art – ballet and flamenco, there are beautiful courtyards and squares to explore.  Initially it certainly won’t be a gastronomic feast…but you won’t starve either! Take a trip to the hills – we did and it was lovely.  If you are sailing – I think we would recommend mooring in Marina Hemingway – and travelling by land. The official (and completely pointless) paperwork at every stop rather detracts from the pleasure of cruising. However, the officials were charming…and a delight to meet.  Our lives have been enriched by our brief visit.