Exploring Bocas Del Toro
Bocas was unlike anywhere else we'd been so far on the Caribbean coast
of Panama. Many bars, restaurants, young
people ;-) and a good
vibe. It was a welcome respite after too long around Colon and the
frustrations we had
encountered on the way. We felt as though Bocas
didn't want us to visit, so finally arriving was great! We had arrived
late afternoon and just cracked open a beer when our friends Steve and
Lili came over to say Hello (who were at the
same anchorage). That
night we hit the town... A decent meal and too many beers and cuba libres
were consumed,
resulting in hangovers (hard to believe but the first
in 3 months I think!) and a lazy following day.
We dug out the bikes and went for some much needed exercise out to the
Bluff - a well known surf spot - where we
had to carry the bikes a
few times thru' streams, mud bogs and the sea but it was worth it. We swam
on a pretty
well deserted beach (deserted because it had probably
swept all previous victims away...) then found an awesome
surf lodge
up the cliff in the jungle overlooking the surf. The fish for lunch was
consumed with much vigour!
We decided to leave the bright lights of Bocas for Isla Bastimentos
(known to me as Bob island) where we'd heard
reports of a lower key
scene. Low key it wasn't. Pounding bass well into the night. But no Ianapa
- this was
strictly local music and it blasted the whole bay - yet
another Panamanian holiday! Sammy wanted to see some damned
organic
cafe/shop at the top of hill in the jungle. My idea of fun in 100%
humidity and who knows what heat....
Sammy was delighted to find the
owner was from Aberdeen - pretty self explantory really - who else would
have
camped up the hill on Bast Island 8 yrs ago in the jungle to
build a hill top cafe?....
From there we slipped and slid our way down the hill through cow shit
and plantations to wizard beach which supposedly
has good surf.
Sometimes maybe but not that day! It was nice but not like an Oz
beach.
After we had enjoyed local Thai and organic cocoa we dragged ourselves
down to Hospital Bight (so called because of
all the ship wrecked
survivors cut to death on the coral reefs maybe?) as we obviosuly needed a
navigational challenge.
Took Quartermoon through the Gap (a narrow
channel thru the mangroves) and the depth finder read alarmingly low but
we made it out the other side. When we felt brave we snorkelled in
the mangroves which have coral hanging from the
roots) and saw
an amazing Eagle Ray. Not wishing to become lunch for a passing Bull
Shark, we decided a drink was
in order and headed to an idyllic
resort called Punta Caracol where Sammy and her parents had stayed 9 yrs
earlier.
(Yep I am not a cutting edge traveller in these parts). We
enjoyed some rum punch and a few beers then swam from the
bar.
Customers must have been a novelty to the staff as they waited on us hand
and foot and we didnt see anyone
else there - maybe due to the very
1st world prices!
It was very quickly time to head back to Shelter Bay to meet my folks
so we decided to head out via Crawl Cay.
Unfortunatrely we did crawl
through it and the wind blew us off course whilst navigating a narrow
channel, nearly onto a reef!
That was the second time thatday the
depth guage had read 0.0m that day after Bocas Marina fuel dock! I changed
my
shorts and we went snorkelling, only to be almost run over
(seriously) by a blase "tour boat" skipper who didnt expect
us to be there. Spent the night at Zapatilla Keys (cool name or what?)
which is a match for the San Blas islands.
I turned into Akio and
collected much crap, obviously all needed. I left with 2 coconuts, a
funnel, some hard wood
and a message in a bottle....
Trip back to SBM started boring - no wind whatsoever so we motored most
of the way and had a few deep water swims. Wind
kicked in at 6am so
had bacon and eggs and a great sail the rest of the way.
Started planning the 2 day turn around and where to store enough beer for my parents imminent arrival.....