Our final night in Moramba Bay was particularly windy, up to 30 knots, but we had plenty of chain out and all was well.  The strong overnight easterlies were katabatic winds coming down off the mountain range behind the coast which includes Madagascar's highest peak.  These winds become particularly strong when the skies are clear, as they had been, so we also had clear nights with brilliant stars and a sliver of moon early in the evening.  The winds were supposed to be easing from Thursdayso we left Moramba Bay, but we still had the south easterly all day.  The normal afternoon north westerly tried to establish itself around noon but didn't last long.  We anchored off a beach and small village early in the afternoon with a normal amount of chain out as the forecast was for light winds, however it picked up during the evening and about an hour after we had gone to bed our anchor alarm went off; we were dragging the anchor in a particularly strong gust.  By the time we were up we were moving backwards rapidly into deeper water, luckily with nothing behind us.  By the time we were able to get more chain out the depth had gone from 8 meters to 13.  The anchor gripped again, we reset the alarm, and all was well for the rest of the night.

This was only intended as an overnight stop and we were up at 5am the next day for the 60+ mile passage to Katsepy.  Once again the wind hadn't listened to the forecast and was gusting up to 35 knots in the morning.  Finally, after lunch, it eased enough for us to shake the reefs out of the mainsail and unfurl the Yankee for a pleasant sail the rest of the way to our destination.  After the quiet of our recent anchorages, where the villages had no access to mains services so there were no lights or music systems at night, Katsepy was a surprise.  Its a busy village across the bay from the port of Mahajanga with lights, music and regular ferries to the town.  We were here to top up food and fuel and in the morning, with the help of local fixer Patrick,  everything was easy.  While Patrick took us to check in with the Port Officer and to get cash from Orange Money our fuel cans disappeared off and came back with (more or less) 120 litres of diesel.  Patrick then took us round the market stalls and was really helpful, spotting when stalls had received fresh deliveries so we managed to get green bananas and some nice looking small bell peppers as well as the normal market produce.  We got enough that we didn't need to take the ferry to Mahajanga for the supermarket.  Patrick then arranged lunch for us at a small quiet restaurant; a plain but pleasant meal that meant we didn't need to start using our fresh produce straight away.

This morning we left Katsepy and continued south to our current anchorage at Nosy Antsoheribory in Boeny Bay.  We are now planning our departure for South Africa and if the weather holds as forecast expect to leave from here in the next couple of days.  Madagascar rates among our favourite of all the places we have been since we left the UK.  The amazingly diverse and unique wildlife, beautiful scenery and fascinating traditional boats that we could watch all day, together with the lovely people we have met have made it a special place.  However the poverty and corruption have been quite unsettling, making us immensely aware of how privileged we are to come from a safe, stable and wealthy country.  We will be sad to leave.