We really didn’t know much about Brunei, an ex British protectorate, they were given independence in 1984. It has been ruled by the same family for at least the last six centuries. The King/Sultan of Brunei is an absolute ruler of the kingdom, he is head of state, head of the government, finance minister, defence chief etc.
Departing Miri on Wednesday at first light we had a minimum depth observed of 2.5 m over the entrance bar, plenty to float us out in the calm seas. There was a slight swell from the west and little wind as we motored along the coast ensuring that we stayed at least 500m away from the oil installations. We tried to sail a bit but really there wasn’t enough wind to maintain the speed we needed to reach Jerudong harbour, 70 miles, away before dark. Jerudong harbour was built to give a protected harbour on the coast of Brunei but has never been finished or used commercially. The breakwaters are there as are the metal piles to hold the navigation lights for the access channel but that is all. Inside the harbour we could have anchored anywhere, choosing to anchor in the shelter of a small island.
After a peaceful night we were away again early in the morning to finish this passage. A British warship was heard on the radio HMS Spey asking for a pilot and they were well into the harbour before us. HMS Spey is a P200 patrol craft stationed in the Indopacific region. This class of patrol vessel is used to conduct anti-piracy, counter-terrorism and anti-smuggling tasks.
We anchored off the Royal Brunei Yacht Club and used our dinghy to visit the ferry terminal where our check-in to Brunei was completed very efficiently, all the required offices being in the terminal, quarantine, port officer, customs and immigration. Then back to the Yacht club to sign in, pay visitors dues and organise our fuel purchase. The club offers a pool, boatyard, and restaurant. Thomas the manager was incredibly helpful, nothing was too much trouble. Thursday evening we sampled the food in the restaurant, not being particularly impressed by the fish and chips. Friday was spent with onboard jobs and picking up 200L of fuel.

On Saturday we joined with Manuel and Sheila from Anima, took a Dart (Brunei version of Uber) into the main town to see the sights. We visited the Royal Regalia museum which has a history of the present sultan from childhood through his coronation and his achievements while in power.

Coronation coach, propelled by 24 men pulling and 24 pushing.
We then moved on and after lunch went for a river trip. This is a speedboat trip up the river passing the worlds largest stilt village with a population of around 15,000 it has four schools, a hospital, fire station and police station.  Then a view of the Sultans palace. Further up the river we saw proboscis monkeys then it was back through the village to finish off. 

The Sultans Palace from the river
An excellent trip with information from our Bajo boatman who lives in the village.
We were able to have a look inside the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque. The largest mosque in Brunei and one of two National Mosques. This was a fleeting visit between their prayer times.

We managed to fit in a quick shopping trip to a large supermarket before returning to the Yacht Club and supper in the restaurant again, better food this time.

Jane and Mark from 9 Lives, with Mark’s sister Jo, had managed to arrange a day out for seven of us to the Ulu Temburong national park on Saturday another recommended trip. Brunei is made up of two areas separated by Malaysia it used to be difficult to visit both areas except by boat or by driving through Malaysia with the hassle of border controls. Now there is a 25 mile motorway built over the sea and mangroves which makes a visit easy. It was about a one and a half hour drive to the start point of our visit to the park. Here we were met by Mira our local guide and given breakfast while we waited for another group to join us. Then, issued with life jackets and helmets, H&S gone mad you’ll see why later. We were taken on a forty minute ride up river in long boats, the local watercraft, through shallows and rapids to the park. 

Local Longboats for the trip up river
Here we ascended 1000 wooden and slippery steps, crossing a suspension bridge part way up, to the canopy walkway. This was a scaffolding assembly of towers and bridges climbing another 54m. 

Canopy walkway made from alluminium scaffolding.
An early morning trip up here can enable you to see Hornbills and Gibbons, we settled for a small lizard, some butterflies and a couple of eagles. Returning to the river we were taken to a small waterfall, this is where we had to wear the hard hats plus our life jackets for the short walk in, total lunacy of legislation. The waterfall had a small pool at its base for swimming and sitting in while the ‘Doctor Fish’ removed dead skin from your feet.

‘Doctor Fish’
The return downriver, with the flow was a lot faster than going up, as the drivers of the longboats negotiated the rapids with the current this time. Back at Mira’s base, her aunts house, we were fed a good lunch. Another really good day out and I think we have seen the best of Brunei.
Sunday evening was wet and windy and we stayed on board, the boats swing all over the place at the change of tide and the wind would increase the risk of damaging collisions. Monday morning we cleared out at the ferry terminal and were ready to leave.