When we had trouble with the mainsail track on the mast in February, between the Andaman’s and Sri Lanka, we realised we would need a new track. The track is a plastic extrusion which slides up the slot on the back of the mast and is bolted in place at the bottom it had suffered from the UV and heat. It provides a low friction slot for the slides on the edge of the mainsail to go up. We were already expecting a new headsail to be delivered in Galle and the sailmaker advertises the track supplier on his website so thinking he might keep it in stock we contacted him. Unfortunately, the track had to come from America but Phil at Zoom sails was willing to order it for us and import it duty free into Sri Lanka, he would then deliver it to us with the sail order. Sounded okay so we checked with the supplier and they gave us the dimensions of the track they had supplied previously. We passed the details on to Zoom and the track was ordered. Sounds good so far but the track came via Dubai and landed there at the same time as Trump started bombing Iran, luckily it was only held up for a few days. Sail and track were delivered to us on our return from our Sri Lanka tour. We tried to fit the track but it was the wrong size! Phil had sent the correct details to Zoom and they had misordered. They admitted liability and ordered again, this time for delivery to our agent in the Maldives. Phil checked with the supplier this time to ensure that the order was correct, it was. We finally picked it up in Male on Saturday, where it had been waiting for us. Total time from order to pick up, just under ten weeks, such is the cruising life. At least we weren’t stuck in one place waiting.

Goidhoo to Himmafushi and speedboat boat to Male

So from Goidhoo we were heading to Male to restock and pick up the mast track. A long day motor sailing with hardly any wind took us across to an atoll anchorage on the west side of N Male atoll an anchorage with reef all round to break up the seas but no land to give shelter from any wind. We spend one night here with Jamala and then completed the trip across N Male atoll to Himmafushi the next day. Himmafushi  is the preferred anchorage for visiting Male, inside the reef you are sheltered from the seas, there are a couple of shops and a few restaurants in the small town, a boatyard and a resort. Not the nicest of anchorages because of the scattered rocks and bommies on the sea floor waiting to catch anchor and chain and the wash from the speed boats, fishing boats and ferries travelling between town, resort and Male. 

A number of boats we knew were here including Ruth, they had been dis-masted on their first attempt to get from Sri Lanka to the Maldives, returned to Galle to sort the wreckage and then motored down here. They may well be stuck here till August or September waiting to get rerigged, the mast has to be made and then shipped from France.

On Saturday we went to Male itself. We intended using the local ferry in the morning, but it failed to arrive, no reason given. The fast ferries were all fully booked until the afternoon but luckily an extra speedboat was laid on at extra cost and we hurriedly booked a place on that. Our return trip by speedboat had already been booked in advance.

Male, narrow streets and lots of motorbikes.

We wandered the streets visiting a number of chandleries and other shops and made a few purchases, had a nice curry lunch in a small restaurant and then stocked up with fruit and veg in the excellent market. Our agents man met us at the ferry terminal with our track and we were ready to return to Meikyo.   At the last minute we had a call from our agent asking if we could take another parcel with us, parts that Jamala had been waiting for.  His man did another trip to the ferry port and Maria and Allen got their spares.

On Sunday the track was fitted, and Monday we escaped from Himmafushi.

Phil with the mast track, tightly rolled. We undid one cable tie at a time as we pushed it up the mast.

We had difficulty trying to buy diesel in Himmafushi, the only supplier was the government fisheries plant, and they wanted paying by bank transfer which none of our bank accounts will do in MVR so we are looking for islands with a fuel station. Not desperately but we like to keep the tanks topped up especially as it might be in short supply, and at this time of year so close to the equator there can be no wind for days. After a one-night stop at the same reef anchorage, we used on the way to Himmafushi we have moved on to South Ari Atoll and more specifically Maavaru at the north end. This area is well known for its Manta Rays and in the morning the dive boats come out from the resorts, all sizes from big live-aboards down to local small boats. We watched them searching for the Mantas, mainly out in the pass through the reef then late morning they all disappeared off. Anchored where we were, after the dive boats left, we could see Mantas swimming in the shallows so went and joined them. There were five swimming around so close to us and feeding in the not so clear water they also had Remoura swimming with them. Amazing to see them barrel rolling over and over apparently this creates a vortex which concentrates the food in one place (according to google). Later they came and swam around Meikyo.

Swimming with the Mantas, a definite Wow moment.