We always try and sail as much as possible and with reports of fuel being unavailable further south in the Maldives we are even more keen to conserve our diesel by using the sails.  After a number of windless days at Hurasfaruhuraa and Komandoo we saw forecasts of stronger northerly wind and, with fellow tail-enders Ozone, Jamala and Allora, we made plans to make progress south.

As this was just intended as an overnight stop we didn’t go ashore and were up early for the 35 mile trip through Noonu Atoll and across to Naifuru in Lhaviyani Atoll.  Passages through the atolls have been relatively straightforward but need some planning as the reefs and islands we have to go round aren’t always accurately charted and we check their position on a satellite view before departure.  This was a good days sail, only using the engine to leave and enter our anchorages.  

We anchored south of Naifaru in 18 meters with good northerly protection from reclamation work being carried out on the reef.  This was the most developed island we had seen so far and because the anchorage had been so well sheltered we decided to take an extra day and have a look round. There was a big and very clean harbour full of local boats where we found space at the north end to tie the dinghy near some steps to get ashore. The town was similar in layout to others, with a grid of sandy street and houses with courtyards shaded by fruit trees, but there were more and more varied shops plus the first cars we have seen in the Maldives.  We had lunch in a small cafe by the harbour: the curry must have been freshly made as it took so long to arrive but was delicious, flavoured with cinnamon sticks, cardamon, curry leaves and coconut milk.  Jamala joined us in the anchorage during the afternoon.  The wind direction had changed slightly and we both rolled all night.

With another good day’s wind we aimed for Goidhoo Atoll the next day, a 30 mile passage.  We kept a conservative sail plan until we got outside the atoll then increased sail and Meikyo was soon cruising at 6-8 knots.  Jamala appeared to our west and the race was on!  The two boats are very different and Meikyo had a definite edge with the wind behind the beam but once we turned onto the wind around the eastern end of Goidhoo we were pretty well matched.  The entrance to Goidhoo was stunning with a small island to the west of the pass with rollers breaking on the reef all round it.  Once inside we motored the three miles to anchor off Innafashi Island, finding a spot with sufficient space between coral outcrops (bommies) at the second attempt.