PACIFIC 14:32.48S 164:52.16W

Chantelle
Fri 30 May 2008 23:08
Hello Everyone
It's been a while since last up date but will
attempt to put you in the picture now.
After the peaceful existence in Rangiroa Atoll
(Tuomotus) arriving in Tahiti seemed like the busiest place on earth. It was
nice to be back in civilisation again doing normal things such as visiting the
hair dressers! Kate and Steve joined us on the 29th so had a few
days together in Papeete before we set sail for Raiatea for the Pearl
Regatta. We found a local bar (called a pub) which provided live music and
colourful local characters to have a boogie with. The most talked about venue in
Papeete was the Piano Bar notorious for it's clientelle - "lady boys". As usual
we were just leaving as it was getting interesting! We did see the inner sanctum
where the "cabaret" took place and were reliably informed by other Arc die hards
that the show left little to the imagination.
WARC rally control along with Tahiti Tourism
organised a days tour for us around the Island with a stop for lunch at the Paul
Gaugin Museum restaurant. It was a great day out and has to be said a welcome
relief to find we didn't have to pay a penny! Tahiti is split into two islands
the main one being Tahiti Nuie (spelling?) and Tahiti Iti, the tour concentrated
on the main Island, so as Kim had had an earlier failed expedition to Iti
earlier in the week on the bus, we decided to hire a car and take a look. The
main reason for wanting to visit Iti is the famous (if you're into
surfing) Teahupoo wave. The Billabong championships are held in this particular
spot and we'd been informed that the pro surfers were rehearsing for the big
event. It was actually surprising that we managed to get there at all as our
hire car was on it's last legs (special deal)! By the time we'd returned the car
John was unable to open his drivers side door and at one point we thought the
lock was broken and we were going to have abandon it. Thankfully the air con
worked! Once at Teahupoo we found a local guy to take us out in his boat to
watch the "wave". Unfortunately we picked the wrong day and the "wave" was more
of a "wavelette" but glad we went nevertheless.
So having seen most of the Island with Kate and
Steve we decided to leave for the Island of Moorea, Oponuhua Bay. She'd been
tempting us for a few days watching the sun setting on her majestic form! We
arrived without incident - almost! The bay was so beautiful we were in some kind
of a trance and before we knew it managed to ground ourselves (a first)! In our
defense the chart plotter was somewaht misleading! There was one
other yacht anchored in the bay, Blue Raven a Blue Water Rally boat (spared
us some of the ignominy - at least not Arc boat). He tried to help us and took
our stern anchor, buried it and then we tried to wind ourselves off. We had
Steve on the boom, let all the way out bouncing up and down very athletically
and Kate and Kim winching for all their lives were worth! (Come to think of it,
what was Captain H doing?) All to no avail! In the end Steve dove in the water
and came up with the solution and with some motoring and jiggling of the helm we
were free! (Moral of story, always eye ball situation first if you can)! So
safely anhcored we went ashore and had a brief look around. We found a shrimp
farm and plenty of land crabs (not surprisingly). From here we thought we'd take
a look at the reef just outside the bay and not content with grounding the big
boat we did the very same thing with our dinghy! Oh well, nothing like a double
whammy! Of course on this occassion we were oarless and torchless so JH plunged
into the water and guided us to safety, which Kate and I were very grateful for
as we were only wearing flip flops which don't work on a coral bottom under
water!
Grounding debacles over, the following morning we
set sail for Raiatea where the Pearl Regatta was due to start from, arriving in
the early hours! There was a welcoming committee on the quay side for Regatta
participants and much to our dismay/amusement the accompanying cocktails were in
short supply, some of the staff having got there first! The tension was mounting
and after yet more money exchanging hands we were officially listed
and advised to start planning our strategy! At least we had a map by now! The
race was spread over four days and would take us to the neighbouring Island of
Tahaa and then across to Bora Bora. The info sheet spoke of "technical legs"
designed to "harass" the crew! Kate and Kim discussed their "anti-harassment"
strategy, and devised a secret weapon ready to deploy, thankfully not
needed! It was a smooth operation with minimal shouting and most of the hassle
came from some of the other boats who seemingly had next to no knowledge of
racing rules! We were expecting a cruising class to be in place to account for
all the extra weight on board but that never materialised, however we still
managed a respectable finish. We were the third WARC boat in, on each of the
four races and 18th overall. So not bad! No trophies, just great to sail the
"Olympic Triangle" in Bora Bora!
The evenings entertainment after each race has kind
of merged into a big blur! They promised us festive dinners and frenzied
shows and for the most part that's what we got, along with very rowdy,
boisterous sailors! At one event on the Island of Tahaa the skippers were all
blessed by the local chief (?) who tied a leaf around their wrist to ward off
the evil spirits. This was then transferred to the boat - only problem - it
seemed to ward off all wind and wild life as well. JH in his new state of
beatitude was then asked to perform the Hakka with the other skippers. They
looked like a bunch of "little boys lost"! Funny to watch!
John and Kim had a great dive in Manta Pass despite
not seeing any Rays, apparantely a bit early in the year. We hitched a lift off
another Dinghy - 30 hp engine (ours is 8) and planed there in next to no time.
That's the way to travel!
We had a guided tour around the Pearl Beach Resort
"Manea Spa". As Kate and Steve decided against taking out a second mortgage to
cover cost of staying in the hotel they opted for a session at the spa.
They emerged looking suitably chilled and glowing and even managed to
smuggle out a goody bag for John and Kim. Steve intoxicated by the whole "aura
of Bora Bora" booked himself in for a tatoo! Very nice too!
Before we knew it, it was time for Steve and Kate
to be leaving. It was great having them here, we couldn't have done the Pearl
Regatta without them and they were a great help on the boat. JH is now reduced
to "girlie" technical help! Oh dear!
After much deliberation over whether to sail onto
Rarotonga (South Cook Islands) or Suworrow (North Cook Islands) the weather made
the decision for us. Although there would be more opportunity to replenish at
Rarotonga there was some nasty looking systems lurking. We had some feed back
from other boats heading that way, talking of 50+knots. So Suworrow it was and
we're so pleased we went there. A true desert island, not a satellite dish in
sight and a real sense of "splendid isolation" (just had to pretend the rest of
the fleet weren't there). Suworrow has been declared a National Park and
the island is only inhabited for half the year by the caretaker and his family.
They had been there just a week before we arrived. They were very welcoming
and hospitable - lovely people. John (caretaker) organised a tour of some of the
Motus around the Atoll which are popular bird nesting sights. We were surrounded
- as most people commented it was like a scene out of Alfred Hitchcock's film
The Birds. The water here is the clearest we've seen so far, like looking
through glass! This is definitely a "highlight" of the trip and would love
someday to return. There is no access other than boat and long may it remain so,
it is one of earths little gems and best kept a secret (if only that were
possible). Mandy - rally control, encouraged people to spend sometime helping
with a clear up operation as a cyclone had passed through here earlier in the
year and destroyed the hut and generally caused lots of damage to the landscape.
On our tour we also collected as much flotsam and jetsam as possible, there was
a real concern to try and leave only "footprints" in this remote and
enchanting island.
We said our goodbyes to the family on Thursday
morning (29th) and set off for our next destination Niue. So we are currently
motoring along, as very little wind but quite a swell developing. Hoping to
arrive sometime Monday.
We are now reduced to two hand lines for fishing,
having lost two lures (favourites) and all line off reel. Cptn H not a happy
bunny but at least we still have plenty of smash potato on board!
The picture attached includes our new crew mate
Joanne who joined us in Bora Bora. She's been sailing with the fleet since St
Lucia and decided to give Chantelle a try! Good to have an extra pair of hands
and someone else to talk to!
Well folks that's all for now! We are expecting to
have wifi at Niue, so if this is the case will download some more
pictures.
Hope everyone well back home and summer has finally
kicked in!
Take care all
Chantelle
xxx
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