Tonga
Catacaos
Graham Shaw
Wed 5 Oct 2011 21:42
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After ten days in Niue we set off again, still with
Frank and Gail aboard. On passage from Niue to Tonga we ended up with
another visitor, 87 miles from land:
 He/she decided to hop on for a ride for a short
ride.
 Just for those who do not know what it is, we think
it is a flying fox (type of bat), and yes it was big. The picture above
was taken under our radar dome, halfway up our mast. He did manage to stop
on our mast head and on the genoa as well. He was a little tired we
think.
Tonga is a very beautiful place with numerous
anchorages to stay in, but first we had to clear into the main town of
Neiafu (part of the Vava'u Group of islands), which as you all know
involves lots of official people coming to visit your boat for their sum of
money. The first was the agriculture official who charged us a sum of
23.50 tonga panga'a, we are not sure what it was for. Next was the Health
official who charged us 100 panga'a for again we are not surewhat, we think
to check that no one died on passage and we were not carrying the plague.
Next was Customs, which is the standard, and then Immigration again the standard
- basically it is a good way to make some money and do very little for it.
Considering the number of yacht crews who came to meet us on the dock,
and came aboard for tea it all seems very relaxed. I'm sure if I told
them we had a bat onboard for part of our journey, we would have to pay another
fee for fumigating the boat??
The main town is quite a happening place, a big
meeting place for all the cruiser on route to New Zealand or Oz, but also the
parting place for lots of boats going different directions, so clearly we had
lots to celebrate. We just missed the regatta week which was a big
shame, but good fun was had by all the other boats - lots of dressing up, games
and racing. More importantly they were
playing the rubgy the day we arrived, so a big night out on the town. I
also managed a night out to watch the Fakaladies - I leave that to your
imagination.
There is a huge market where you can buy all your
local vegetables, which I have to say I got very excited about seeing all these
vegetables I have not seen in a long while, also they had some beautiful craft
too. I could not resist purchasing a carving of a humpback whale, which is
made out of coconut wood. This carving is a little large, so help was
needed carrying it to the boat. I just hope I can get it through Oz customs when
we arrive. They also had lots of bone carvings, which were sold as whale
bone, but in fact when checking they were made out of cow bone. The nice
thing about Tonga is that everything is much more resonably priced than in
the French Polynesia or the Cook Islands, in fact the word is cheap.
We managed a day or so in another anchorage,
stopping at some beautiful caves called the Swallows Caves, where you can drive
in in your dinghy, and have a snorkel around. We ended up at a beautiful
sandy beach on a small island, with a few other boats, and lots of children for
Lucas to play with. This little island is famous for when Prince Edward
visited the island back in 1983, when the locals built a toilet for the
occasion, which still stands today. Cue joke about sitting on
the throne!
We returned to town for a Tongan feast which is
held every Sunday, and which was very special. About 20 of us
tourists attented which was just the right number. They roasted a pig
on a spit and everything else was cooked in an Umu (traditional polynesian
underground oven).
  Yes not much pig for twenty people - but the
crackling was beautiful!
 Its was great to taste the different vegetables and
cooked in a unusual way. An umu is like a underground bbq made from wood
then covered in earth - gives an earthy taste to your veggies!
There are so many anchorages to visit, and so
little time. We managed a number of spots, and did lots of
snorkeling. There is such a different variety of fish, and corals which I
have not seen before. Also we have managed to see whales in the distance
on a daily basis when traveling about the islands. One day was very special
when we were sailing in the outer islands, and two large humpback and one small
whale started performing right in front of us, breaching completely out of the
water. In fact they were so close it was a little nerve wrecking for
Gray, so we put the engine on so they were aware of us, before they ended
up on the deck. It was an awesome experience, and I wish I had better photos to
show for it, all 50ish photos where just splashes.
 Another night in town they put on a show of some
whales that had been filmed in the last week, which was very moving
and beautiful footage. I wish I could have been a part of it, but alas it was
their last day of filming.
We managed to meet some new people with children,
Grufflo (like the children's book) and Saba. It was Joshua from
Gruffalo's forth birthday, so a beach party was had. Lots of fun and
games
  Oscar, Raoul and Josh, trying to beat the girls in
the tug of war.
 Lucas' first donut ride - he was so
excited!!
 Do you think we are a bit big for that little
gap?
 Approaching some of the many islands of
Tonga.
In the last few days it was Lynn from yacht
Steel Sapphire's and that of Connor from Toucan, so another party was to be had,
the theme being green (Connor is from Dublin). A brillant time was had
with Connor putting his voice and guitar skills, and his memory of words for
songs. The party was held on the two boats, starting on Toucan and
finishing in the early hours on Steel Sapphire.
 Lynn the birthday girl and Connor the birthday boy,
with Peggy and David from yacht Rhythm - fab wig.
 Glenn and Lynn, trying out the spoons.
 Connor doing his thing. Yes he has Peggy's
bikini top on!??
 Yes we know some young people as well! By the
way, those are Lucas' pyjama bottoms on my head - very fetching!
Sadly we have parted company with our shipwrecked
friends Gail and Frank from RiRi. They are heading to New Zealand and of course
we are going to Oz, so they have found new homes (boats) to take them to
New Zealand. Gail has joined Joy and Gordon on the yacht "Promise", and
Frank has joined Solange and Joao on "Casulo". We have thouroughly enjoyed
having them aboard, and Lucas has had a great time playing with them.
We have clearly converted them to the catamaran lifestyle as both the boats they
have joined are also cats!! We wish them best on their onward voyages
and hopefully we will catch up with them in New Zealand when we fly
there.
 Frank and Gail on Palmerston.
Next stop, which should be tomorrow, will be Fiji.
Hopefully we have internet to send the blog. And alledgedly Jersey Telecom
have a roaming agreement with Fiji, which means we can be telephoned on the
Jsy mobile no. for the first time since the Galapagos Islands back in
April! Just bear in mind that we are 12 hours ahead
GMT!
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