Blog 9. San Blas to Portobella. 09 33.48N 79 57.02W

Alcedo
David Batten
Sun 31 Jan 2016 17:42
With apologies to all blog readers for deafening silence from Alcedo, but a
combination of busy, busy, busy and very flaky Wifi has interfered with all blog
activities and in truth, we are now in Shelter Bay, but will go back to San Blas
for this blog.
Chichime in all honesty was a disappointment. It has been spoiled by
the back packers who stay on the Island at the weekend and it was a weekend when
we were there. The rubbish detracts from the beauty of the Island and we
were unlucky with the weather as the wind was unusually strong and blowing
mostly from the North East, making the anchorages rough and the sea very
murky. It was also very squally the day of the WARC pot luck lunch, so
Stephano delivered the Skipper’s briefing for Porvenir and Panama on a windy
beach just before a torrential downpour sent everyone scurrying for the lunch
hut. The local tribe of Kuna Indians who gave permission and provided the
venue for the pot luck then gave a demonstration of their “tribal” dance in
their traditional dress. The female members of crew then enjoyed a little
retail therapy by buying bracelets all round as we could not bring ourselves to
pay $60 for a “Molar”, a square of beautifully constructed patterns on different
layers of material that would make lovely cushion covers, but just did not
appeal enough to justify the expenditure.
After Chichime, we motor sailed to Porvenir to check into Panama, a
necessary but somewhat tedious process involving an indifferent anchorage
between 2 reefs off quite a small island that was mostly runway, only
occasionally in use. Then it was off downwind and around a couple more
reefs to Limone Cays, a lovely collection of small islands surrounded by
reefs. We did not want to approach from the North as there was quite a big
sea running and the entrance to the south would have necessitated keel up, which
it was too rough to achieve without taking off too much of the repairs done in
Deltaville and Rodney Bay, but we found enough sand to anchor just off the
southern entrance. We did go and explore another potential anchorage, but
decided this one was nicer, so returned for a late snorkel on a very nice reef,
where we met the crew of Chillie B, also enjoying the reef. Sadly,
there are not as many fish as one would expect for such a reef and some parts of
the reef showed signs of significant previous destruction. Hubert, the
Skipper of Chillie B suspected dynamite fishing some time in the past, but that
is shear speculation. There is no doubt that to truly appreciate San
Blas, you need more time than we had, the south and eastern islands are by far
the best and calmer conditions would have made the cruising round there so much
more relaxing and pleasurable. The boats that spent longer there and went
further away from Porvenir and Chichime really enjoyed them and found the
unspoilt beaches and great snorkelling that they are famous for.
After “Uncle” was collected by the taxi service for his transfer to Panama
and the “Tenacious”, we left the San Blas and had a cracking sail once we had
cleared the reefs off the San Blas Peninsular. Destination Portobella, a
beautiful deep bay on the coastline between Isla Grande and the entrance to the
Canal. As in every good anchorage we have visited to date, there were a
mass of yachts in the bay, but it is so large and the holding so good, there is
no problem with finding space. The bay is set in lovely countryside, a
mixture of untouched and cleared forest with few houses and the town is small
and very unspoilt. There are a few restaurants and we went to ”Jacks” and
enjoyed Thai based cuisine for supper. The following morning we had time
for a quick walk and some unexpected retail therapy for pearl necklaces at the
entrance to the forts and delicious fresh bread from the bakery. Another
place where more time would have been welcome, but we are in the first group
transiting the Canal, so we must proceed to Shelter Bay and preparation for the
transit.
Alcedo.
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