Roseau, 16/1/2014. 15.17.36N 61.22.74W
Alcedo
David Batten
Sat 18 Jan 2014 00:04
Wednesday, 15/1/2013. Rather a late start, with
anchor up at about 10.30 and genoa only and washing machine running, having
failed to set it off earlier. In no time, we are healing too much to risk
the washing machine any longer, so off washing machine and on water maker.
Unfortunately, the water maker is very temperamental and won’t continue to run
unless it has consistent power generated by the Port engine. The wind was
anything but consistent and the Skipper’s wife reduced revs as the boat healed
in a particularly strong gust, so water maker turned itself off and sulked,
which made the skipper cross. OK, so machines off until we get to where we
are going, which did turn out to be Roseau.
Roseau in the evening light, looking South.
Roseau in the evening light looking North.
There were 2 cruise ships in town, but the area occupied by the yachts is
surprisingly unchanged and good shelter with regards to wind. We were
lucky in that there was very little swell, which obviously can be quite a
problem and we had 2 of the quietest nights to date. We did a bit of an
explore in the late afternoon and came across the Nam Mawon Monument to the
Emancipation of Dominican slaves, the only reference we have come across
to date concerning slavery.
The Plaque on the Monument.
Thursday, 16/1/2013. We had picked up a mooring
under the guidance of Sea Cat’s dinghy man, Desmond, so we were lobbied for the
inevitable tour and decided we would chance the weather and join a French couple
going to Victoria Falls. Sea Cat comes recommended in the cruising guide,
so we were not unduly concerned when we were not picked up at the agreed time of
about 08.45. Fortunately, there were 2 local fisherman who provided
interest between us and Sea Cat’s pontoon as Desmond did not come for us until
about 10.00
Fishing for small fry by the yachts at Roseau.
Apparently the French had decided not to come, but Sea Cat was prepared to
take just the 2 of us for the same price. It was in fact a really good
“tour” once we got going, with lots of stops to chat to locals friends with
convenient fruit trees we could sample, try some “Moonshine” (nearest thing to
100% alcohol possible without being just ethanol) and cocoa pods and some
stunning views.
On the road to Victoria Falls.
Having crossed to the East Coast, we then went inland a bit and eventually
ended up going down a track to a house and restaurant hut set in a beautiful
river garden from which the hike to Victoria Falls starts.
The river at the bottom of the garden.
Through the River Garden.
The walk to the fall involved 5 river crossings each way.
Sea Cat waits for us by the first river crossing.
Some of the water was mid thigh deep and the current quite strong, so it
was quite a challenge, but the forest was beautiful and Sea Cat an excellent
guide.
Trekking through the forest.
The falls themselves were spectacular with tremendous noise due to the
amount of water thundering down and the enclosed setting.
Victoria Falls.
This was as close as the spray would allow without jeopardising the
camera, so no pictures of us swimming in the pool under the falls, which
was quite an experience and not for the feint hearted. The river
crossings, which had seemed quite daunting on the way, were easy on the way back
after the swim by the falls! Feeling somewhat pleased to be back in one
piece, we had a “Rasta” type lunch in the garden, all vegetables grown in the
garden with pulses, quite delicious and a very comforting food sort of
food. The drive home was alarmingly fast up an down the switch back
roads, but we are back on the boat after a very challenging and enjoyable
day. Tomorrow is shop in the market and then leave for Martinique.
Alcedo.
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