24th February 2011 Thursday.
Rio and beyond.
So we have left Rio at last!
We planned to leave early on Tuesday morning early but “circumstances” intervened and we didn’t get going! It was meant to be, because at about 11h00 our “immigration agent” (Fabricio) arrived on the jetty to tell us he had to go and check us out at Port control before we could leave!
This was after telling us and the other people cruising, we didn’t have to check out unless we left the county/ province, being Rio de Janeiro. We discovered our friends on Myrtle of Bonnivale had sailed all the way to Angra dos Reis and when they wanted to check in they were told they had to go back to Rio and check out first! This is about a 12 hour sail back up the coast! Well Pierre caught a taxi back (R$1000.00 later) to come and do the necessary. The thing is this “expert immigration agent” was employed for the princely sum of US$ 500.00 per boat to make all the comings and goings smooth. We have been told since by our local friends we were all taken for a total ride. In fact their words were,” there are no shark in the sea in Rio only on the land”.
The other thing we have discovered in Rio is “Carioca time” (local Rio people’s time.) It makes African time seem efficient! Luckily we were not in a hurry and spent the day catching up on washing, cleaning the boat and other chores. J Well he finally brought our documents at about 20h00. Having told us he would be back in about 4 hours! So as you can see “meant to be”.
With him arriving so late, and the fact we had had dinner and drinks at the club, we stayed tied on to the jetty instead of moving out into the Bay back to our anchorage! This is not a good idea as we discovered when we first arrived, as Brazilian mosquitoes are Rambo’s of the mosquito world. The first few nights we spent tied up, we were attacked by swarms of mozzies, they nearly carried all four of us out of the boat. Having trusty Doom and Tabard at hand I sprang into action! Horror of horrors Brazilian mozzies use SA mozzie products as steroids. I swear that as we sprayed they were breathing in deeper and as they did they exploded and one became four! I would swear when I put down the spray bottle they were sticking their proboscis into the hole where they spray comes out to drink more! Well we have since got Brazilian mozzie spray that works much better.
The last few days at the Rio club we had no or very intermittent internet; so to those who think I have ignored their messages please forgive me. The internet was flashing on every 20 mins for between 5 and 15 mins and then would die again. So sorry!
Well back to the beyond Rio. We set sail at about 07h00 and cruised down the coast. Brazil’s coast is incredibly long. It took us 12 hours to get to the start of the area we are heading for “Il ha Grande” (The locals pronounce is Ill ah Grunge jay) There are 364 islands around Il ha Grande, one for each day of the year! We planned to stay a month or so……… hmmm. ;)
We were going to meet Myrtle at an anchorage but by the time we reached the area it was pitch dark and we decided to go the first anchorage.
So here we are in Enseada Das Palmas. I woke to the sounds of birds on the land (sounds like parrots) not motor boats and cars like n Rio. The anchorage is so pretty. A cove surrounded by forest. Two long beach’s just a short way off. On waking I see there are 5 other yachts at anchor here.
There are two anchorages at Enseada Das Palmas, Praia Grande das Palmas which is nearer to the entrance of the cove and the sea. We chose not to stop there last night it felt a little “exposed” to passing traffic. We stopped at Praia (Beach) dos Mangues.
It is very pretty and we will go exploring later. We say sat on deck having coffee and watched two frigate birds playing tag with a piece of something. One would scoop it off the water then the other would swoop in close and he would drop it. The second one then did the same. It happened at least 6 times before they flew off with their treat.
Oh and we experienced our second rain, 2 days ago we had an awesome rain storm preceded by thunder and lightning. It was beautiful. This morning woke to soft rain on my face, well the hatch was open J
For the twitchers out there, bird list so far: The magnificent Frigate bird (male and female) : Neotropic Cormorant: Great Egret: Snowy Egret ( I love his bright yellow feet): Great Kiskadee: White winged Swallow: Icui Ground Dove: Masked Water-Tyrant: Noddy.
There are two I have not been able to identify ( I have a very basic bird book bought in Rio) They are both about the size of a Noddy and fly over the sea. One has black wings and throat with white tummy and head. The other is brown with a pale blue head extending to its beak. With no internet I can’t google them. Help guys?
So day 2 of “Rio and beyond” begins.
Love to all.
Testing photo send. Hope it works.