Heading up the Gambia River

W2N 'Where to Next?'
Rob 'Bee' Clark
Fri 19 Dec 2008 17:19
13:40.8N 14:53.4W
 
Yes, sorry for not updating the blog for a while. It was so ridiculously peaceful at Lamin Lodge that I was happy to just relax for a few days before making a decision on the next leg of the journey.
 
So, what can you say about a man who gets spooked by a Senegalese fisherman but within just a few days is stroking a crocodile eh!? Redeemed... yes?
 
Well, this is just a short update on my position so I'm not going to go into too much detail about Gambia but the simple fact that I'm still here, having an adventure and heading deeper and deeper into the depths of Africa each day are testiment to the fact that I've ruled out getting to Ascension Island for Christmas. It's just not possible and, well, let's face it, you can't come to Gambia and not travel up The Gambia River can you? Gambia is the river. It would be like going to Egypt and not visiting the pyramids or perhaps Belgium and not... um... well, you see my point?!
 
So, I'm cruising with a Dutch boat Lady of the Lowlands up the river and we've been travelling for three days now anchoring at the river's edge each night. We haven't seen any other other cruising boats yet and every tiny village of huts we pass seem quite bewildered to see not just one boat but two. I can tell you that I've seen vultures, parrots, eagles, kingfishers, pelicans, terns, monkeys, iguanas and goodness knows what else along the way. There are rumoured to be rhinos and crocodiles near where we are now but I've not seen any yet. Nor were there any elephants on Elephant island. The crocodiles I did see were in a nature reserve in Bakau and it's no exageration when I say I stroked one. I've got pictures! It was absolutely unbelievable. The public were able to just wander into the enclosure where about twenty crocs were sunning themselves. I was told that they keep them sufficiently well fed that they are not interested in taking chunks out of tourists - a very strange experience indeed. Imagine getting that past 'Health and Safety' in the UK!
 
So, I've just anchored up for the night about 140Nm up river. Unfortunately, the wind has been easterly all the way so we've had to motor for most of it but I'm looking forward to downwind sailing all the way back to Lamin Lodge. I may even aim to spend Christmas there before heading towards Ascension Island but the river is navigable for another 20Nm or so we're not turning around just yet. The river was mostly bordered by mangroves until this morning when it became very jungly - junglish - like a jungle. It's noisy too. Constant screeching, hooting, chirping, twittering - not from my new Dutch friends Henk and Maria - from the river banks.
 
So, I hope you're all set for Christmas. I'll try to write something a little more informative when I get to Georgetown but, my goodness, where to start?
 
Bye for now
 
Bee