1. Time to leave Petropavlosk Kamchatka again. Destination this time: The Sea of Oskotsk and then the crown jewel, Kurilskoye Lake.

"Kamchatka Peninsula" by Bike and Kayak
Fri 17 Aug 2012 04:18
53:08.5N 157:40.0E

I had a almost two full days and overnight stay in Petropavlosk Kamchatka, the first time I had a chance to really look around, and it left me with a much changed and impressed view of the single 'metropolis' of the peninsular. Avacha bay, almost encircled by impressive volcanic created mountains, the perfect, natural harbour and river mouth estuary to a number of sizeable rivers, is a great, Pacific Ocean, starting point for my adventures.

Trying to source a canoe / kayak for a September expedition down the Kamchatka River, I'd caught up with Slawa, the founder and chairman of the Kamchatka Kayak Club. What a nice guy, whose English was good, and after looking at all his boats, and choosing one, he invited me around to his home / office. The almost standard, dilapidated from the outside, apartment building, and then a very cool, adventurer's, art deco, bachelor pad inside. A guy with a vision for sea kayaking in Kamchatka, he showed me a great video of sea kayaking around the bay, in -25 deg winter sea conditions, done for the American sponsors of their sea kayaks. Great sea wild life, and coastal scenery.

I was hoping too catch up with Andrey, a mountain climbing guide I'd met in Ust Kamchatsk, to discuss a ascent of Mt Tobalchik, but disappointingly, he didn't pitch for our agreed 11am meeting time. I never understand the human integrity side of this type of default, but try and look within for the answer, and was just so thankful the experience with Slawa had been exactly opposite, and I now had a great Kamchatka River expedition lined up.

I stayed in this 'strange' 'hotel' near the commercial harbour, which after lots of doubts, turned out to be the perfect PK base. Slawa had told me about the place, which just like most Kamchatkan accommodation places do, did not look like a hotel, and I'd never have found it. I always prided myself in finding the 'hidden gem' hotels in foreign towns / cities, but Kamchatka has left me feeling like my talent has completely deserted me...! Slawa tried to phone and get a room for me, but was told they were full. He said I should go there, as the hotels have a habit of not taking bookings on the phone, and if you present yourself, they sort of feel a compassion to find you a slot. That's just what happened. The two, 'oldish', and very old school, traditional Russian characters, couldn't speak a word of English and initially gave me the all too familiar, fearful, cold shoulder, American tourist treatment, and told me they were full. Explaining my African-ness, solo, poor bicyclist status, eventually won them over, and I had a room. Over the two days, I became this not to be feared, exotic guest, and they endeared themselves to me, and like most I have so often experienced now, gave me this almost maternal care!

For the evening I had a, very much welcomed by now, non-Russian food, eating experience. An 'up-ish market', Korean food, restaurant, complete with ah English menu. This was heaven, except the waitresses, were literally petrified of my English / bastardised Russian requests, and stayed away from my table, until I beckoned them, virtually pleading for their service.... It's still amazing to me, that waitresses like this have ZERO English vocabulary, and no desire to even change the situation.

On day 1 of my new adventure, I woke to a clear morning, and having to cycle right across Petropavlosk Kamchatka, I had decided to do it before peak traffic, so it was an early departure. Pleasant ride 'over the hill' past the ostentatious, modern theatre, for a final tribute to the huge statue of Lenin, standing over Avacha bay, then last look at the calm, mirror surface, Pacific, and then up a long steep hill into the unattractive heart of Petropavlosk Kamchatka's commercial area.

The 30km's from Petropavlosk Kamchatka to Yelizovo is quite challenging, even at this early hour. Windy road, some quite steep uphills and downhills, on a narrow single, lane road that has no tarred road shoulder, but just a 8-10m gravel section that has a couple of centimetre drop from the tar level, and where non-motorized transport is supposed to go! I was often travelling at the same speed as the buses and heavy vehicles, and would not accept the undeserved place in the gravel shoulder...! This place has zero road cycling culture, other than use of the bike to pop around the corner to the grocery store or to the local playground. This caused conflict with some road users who, hooted repeatedly, shook fists, and yet others how showed polite restraint, although breathing down my back, waiting for a wider place to pass.

From the town of Yelizovo, it mostly all changed as traffic reduced and I was on the main road I'd used before on my last adventure north. The first 95 km would be the same road, all tarred, but interestingly the trip was totally different: Just my luck, a strong, cold, headwind was challenging, but the otherside of the coin was an open vista with great views of the volcanoes and central Kamchatka valley running North. On my earlier trip, it was totally fogged over and I had no appreciation of the wonderful scenery I was now cycling in....

Distracted, excited, challenged by the headwind or whatever, I overlooked my calorie intake, and started 'hitting the wall' about 4 hours into the ride. The village of Sokoch was the day's goal, but it seemed a long time in coming up..!

Gee, did I look forward to it's unique rest stop formula. Women stand next to their insulated hot boxes, selling delicious, fried dough local offerings, filled with chicken, beef, berries, or apple, depending on what one's taste buds are desiring. I must have had four of those, a lovely cold Kamchatka draft beer, and then a few coffees, before heading off on a recce to find a campsite for the night.

Found a great site right on a fast flowing stream, about 1km from the noise and people of the village, yet close enough to pop back for a hearty breakfast in the morning.... This rest stop stay open virtually 24 hours a day. Paradise, and it was great dosing off with the sound of a babbling stream right outside my front door, knowing I'd done 96km for the day, and tomorrow would bring a new unexplored track..! I turned over as I thought of the end of the tar, and what corrugations and other challenges lay ahead...l.