5. A long, solo cycling day...97km reward: Sunset on Kamchatka Rriver

"Kamchatka Peninsula" by Bike and Kayak
Mon 23 Jul 2012 07:36
55:19.89N 159:19.6E

I woke at 6h15, and just as I was about to head out for a pee I noticed a young woman exercising on the school yard equipment, 20 metres from my tent, but also choosing to ignore my squatter presence! It's hard to really be alone and private, hey?

The section ahead today and tomorrow was isolated, and with few rivers, so water and keeping things going would be the priority. There was one village, (which may not be a village!) about 70 kms away that was critical for water. I decide to stock up with fresh bread and have breakfast at my 'favourite' café.
Well at the local deli / store, a uniformed policeman helps by telling me that bread is only delivered at 10am, and when I get to the service station, I see the café only opens at 9am, it's 8h30. I get chatting to some timber truck drivers waiting to fill up, and they confirm my suspicion that it's back to unpaved road as I leave Milkovo. In fact the guy told me it's now unpaved all the way to Esso and Ust Kamchatsk. I'd better get my head around that now!

At 9am, my café owner friend is actually delighted to see me again and welcomes me in, even suggesting breakfasts for me. Wow, pancakes with honey and yogurt...perfect! Fully topped up Ii leave with a very warm 'bon voyage' goodbye and a free chocolate from her. The fresh bread is ready, and by 10h10 I'm heading out of Milkovo. Time for a few pics of the 1940-45 war memorial, I notice most towns have a significant remembrance cenotaph.

Somehow being on plan with Milkovo behind me, I feel I'm now heading for the real stuff I came for. Also those first three 90km days were tough, attitude adjusting and I feel like I've grown from them. So all in all, as I leave Milkovo, even tough I'm on dirt road, motivation is high and the goal clear. Road surface varies between poor and average, but the blinkers are off and vista a bit more open, which makes it easy. Even less vehicles on the road so most of the time I can pick exactly the 'holy grail' path through the pebbles and corrugation, without having to worry which side of the road or vehicles coming. It's a real art to picking a course over these roads, there is usually only one best side and even when on this side centimetres off the holy grail make a huge difference to the smoothness of the ride and rate of progress. It's a game, and I remember cycling down Africa with others, how I used to enjoy the competition of being more consistent in finding the 'holy grail' path!

Lunch was taken at the last river I expected that day, 45 km from Milkovo. I had a wonderful tent spot under the bridge in the cool of its shade. At the heat of midday the mozzies were bad, and the tent shell protection was vital, no luxury!

A three hour rest and nap, broken only by some motorists stopping to come down and replenish their water stocks. I was hoping to ignore them but they were so surprised and intrigued to find me there that they came right up to my tent to talk..Hmm, no peace anywhere hey! Not their fault, I was the foreigner and weirdo!

With the coolness of the afternoon I set off again at 4pm, with full water bottles and fully hydrated body, water maybe scarce ahead. 71km was supposed to be this small village, but who knows. The going is tough, but I decide to break the journey into 10km sessions, with a break after each...its hot, tough going! This works well, I eventually get to the 71km mark, no village nor turnoffs I can see, and so I just push on hoping I'll see something soon. Water stocks are low, I'd sort of banked on getting water here. Kilometres go by, and nothing, so eventually I have to deal with the fact that I've missed my water stop, what next. My map indicates no more rivers for 50-60 kilometres, and even then one's never sure. While I'm looking at my map, a friendly motorist pulls up, but is more interested in what I'm doing out here and why I don't just put my bike in his truck and he'll give me a lift to Esso...much easier! I know the simple logic of this thinking and this guy would never understand that I could never 'lower' myself to consider that option...For me there are no options, it's that clear! I tell him of my water situation and gives me a whole 2 litre sealed bottle. That's all I need. I offer to pay but he is not interested. He is also heading to Esso, and agreed to see each other in three days time.

Even though I had the water now, I decided to take a 10km detour to the Kamchatka River and a village called Tachnee just on the North bank of the river. There was supposed to be a ferry to assist with the crossing.

I found the turnoff, and head down a long, straight, 10 km tree lined road. Not one car, great surface, nice ambient temperature, all good, but I see numerous huge bear tracks next to the road. Time for the "Hey bear" song as I ride!

I eventually arrive at the Kamchatka River. I can see the ferry ramp on the river bank, but no ferry. No problem, great location, I've got the source of water I want, I'll just camp here next to the river.

Mozzies are bad, worst I've had, it's time for my ski balaclava! Its a great spot for perspective of the big river, and soon it'll be sunset. Well a wholesome dinner with this view, nice cozy tent and sleeping bag awaiting, the only concern is bears! Park my bike with all the food a long way away from the tent, grab my sickle and head to the tent to escape the mozzies! An hour later twilight over the river is spectacular, and I retire to bed with another 98 km day behind me, and really glad I'd made this detour to the River.