2. First night out...This is luxury: Hot baths and entertainment! Oops...Bear warning too!
"Kamchatka Peninsula" by Bike and Kayak
Fri 20 Jul 2012 04:20
Martha was fully booked out, but enjoying the warmth and homeliness of her environment, she agreed that I could set up tent in her garden, and still use the house infrastructure. This worked fine for me, and she earned extra income without much hassle, so a win-win. I was early to bed, as I planed to hit the road around 4 30 or 5am, before the traffic started. I was also ready to leave now, and felt excited about the adventure ahead!
Well, overnight rain moved in, so when the alarm went at 4am my world had changed and excitement level was significantly deflated. A peek outside, and the thick fog mixed with light drizzle took things a step lower! There was no debate however, time to rise and get cracking on the bike! I was packed up and out of there by 5 11am and even with rain gear it felt good cycling along the deserted road back into Yelikovo. The bike and trailer felt pretty heavy, sluggish to maneuver, but I kept telling myself this is the way it is for the next 3 or 4 weeks, and you had better accept it soon.. Classic pre-capitulation thinking, and I wonder how long this one will take before I've accepted my 'new life lot' and am enjoying the journey?
Just the other side of Yelikovo there is a sign saying Milkovo 260km and Ust Kamchatsk 679 km. Milkovo a good first major milestone goal, and Ust Kamchatsk the end goal. In between was the major excursion off to Esso, so I'd planned for 900 to 1000 kilometres riding ahead, and then see how I feel at Ust Kamchatsk, about the return trip.
I had the road virtually all to myself, and soon I was dealing with hills in deeply forested terrain, but although the speed was painfully slow on the uphills, the asphalt made it all OK. I was free, fairly flexible plan, and I could do whatever distance I felt like each day...! Sounds easy, but I believe just like big picture life,, the days also need clear purpose and challenging goals to provide a sense of personal height.
The village of Sukoch was my first goal...The solitary guide book, recommended it as a pleasant and culturally rewarding stop. As I pulled in I could see some of what was described, but as usual the guide book oversold the place. For me after 4 hours of cycling, dragging my truck and trailer over mountain and dale, Sukoch was like heaven, a real welcome break. Really just a road stop, the one side of the road lined with varied eateries and food/drink shops, and then as informal traders, women with characteristic hot boxes selling tasty fried dough filled with either meat (Shashlik) or vegetarian (Tshebureky). Looking for a nice relaxing viewing spot I opted for a café that had a outside table, with self service. The friendly woman behind the counter soon latched on to my rest objective and ravenous state, warmly welcoming me to park my bike and take a seat. I love this part of touring cycling: the rest time, rewards for hard work, time to enjoy the culinary and cultural offerings, and just take in the now of a foreign environment. The more relaxed you are the more you can look in the 'now', and the more you look the more you see and learn about the people and the place. The stuff stories get made from! My bike and trailer provided a focal interest point for fellow travelers, many coming up to find out more and were impressed with the plan! There were lots of big '6 wheelers' passing through, paying adventurers doing it the easy way...They'll be in the volcanoes later today, I'll be lucky if I'm there in 6 days, with a lot of hard effort and personal risk behind me... I'd never swap places, but I know seeing me made them question their adventure, because a few came up to me to chat.... The difference was they needed the rest stop to get out and stretch their legs, I needed the rest stop to get in and rest my legs. We were both fuelling up for the isolated road ahead, just different gas stations, and different fuels! A real pleasant stopover, but it was soon time to hit the road again..
About 25km further on, the road splits, one leg goes off to the remote west coast (I'll be taking that in phase 2, but for now it was onto the other leg, the main road that goes North up the central valley of the Kamchatka peninsula
My map showed the 'village' of Malka about 12 km up, and I looked forward to experiencing my first small, more remote Kamchatkan village.
Well, it turned out to be a single general store, with thee owners living quarters attached. I modern building, purpose built, and not an insignificant investment. I pulled in to learn more, and enjoy it's offerings....It was 3pm, I'd done about 85km, and for first day out I was pleased with my achievement, so campsite stop and reward time were imminent!
After a disjointed start, with the early thirties, lady behind the counter seemingly afraid and unable to deal with this strange, sweaty, foreign speaking 'monster'! Her husband joins her, maybe for added security! I enjoy a Kamchatkan beer at their 3 seater customer table, and as I buy more stuff and stay longer their intrigue and trust builds, till we are managing to have a great interaction.
It turns out Svetlana and Vadim moved to Malka from the Ukraine in 2011... Classic immigrant seeking new horizons and improved prosperity by taking on new business risk. My surprise was that they chose this one horse town of Malka as their new paradise and place of opportunity. It turns out they left their 13 year old son at school in the Ukraine, looked after by her parents. I could see the pain on their faces about this decision, but they were here now and committed to their vision and prosperity vision. As they told me about the difficulties of the change and setting up life in Malka, I thought back to my immigration challenges in my move to Australia, and how they were nothing compared to their extreme immigration adventure. Their resilience, determination and approach to risk was inspiring. I took me back to my belief, that with a vision, unfailing commitment to it, an appetite for risk, and belief in oneself, humans can can achieve whatever they desire and make something valuable out of what others may overlook as virtually nothing.
We shared photos, they showing me the winter snow levels, and a 'friendly' grizzly bear outside the shop, me showing them my adventures around the world. We were both genuinely interested in each other's stories. Vadim proudly produced a 5 litre bottle of 90% alcohol home blended vodka, I marveled, but declined his offer to try some. As they didn't sell cheese, they gave me some from their home kitchen. I offered to pay and they refused, topping up my coffee and being really warm and giving. What special people, and I could see they enjoyed the diversity of my visit. In closing the told me of a thermal bath resort 5km off the main road a few kilometres further on. My map and guide book showed nothing, but hey I was on an adventure, and it sounded like a good place to explore.
The isolated, forest lined, 5km dirt road, and their photo of the grizzly bear made me alert as I cycled along. I come to the entrance, a closed boom gate, with stern looking attendants, but as they take in my circumstance the boom opens and they point to the road to the thermal baths, and tell me it's for free. Well 1km inn is this very natural spa bath camping area, with bubbling and steaming mini thermal lakes and pools next to a fast flowing river. Lots off very organised campers, many with Russian flags flying, hey this is quite a special place. Thanks Svetlana and Vadim!
I can't wait to set up tent, just park the bike and head straight for a thermal pool. With speedo on I immerse my self in a large pool right next to the river, gee this is heaven! Even a head rest, so I can lie stretched out on my back covered in warm bubbling water, with the sound off the gurgling stream added to the holistic meditative experience. There was just one other bather in my pool. The water is pretty hot, so after 20 minutes or so it's time to brave the contrast of the icy waters of the river. Invigorating for a weary cyclist!
Everything is orderly, families having good basic fun and nobody bugging anyone else, and I'm accepted on my own, with my strange 3 wheel bike. What a way to finish the day's 97km cycle.
I find a nice, secluded campsite on the edge of the camping area, set up tent, no flysheet and just have an hour's nap before starting dinner. Well I get woken by two really concerned guys who want to tell me that it's dangerous to camp where I am, as there was a grizzly there thee night before! Hmm, too relaxed boy, you need to seriously remember you are in big bear country. Nice guys...I thanked them and said I'd move, just having a short nap. Lo and behold I get woken by another guy also warning me! This is serious stuff!
Being probably the only one on my own and having the smallest tent by far, I find a small site in the middle of the camping community and accept that neighbour noise will have to be the compromise for a safe night's sleep. I did find a nice soulful spot down at the river to enjoy a very special, simple dinner experience. The music, parties, and ofcourse vodka, did flow till the early hours of the morning, but it all seem to add to my camping paradise!
What a diversely stimulating and fulfilling 1st day it had been! This is the great thing I find with touring cycling, it's this wonderful mix of physical adventure and new situational exploring..
Vadim had told me that the asphalt surface ended soon...
Lets see what day 2 brings