Sibenik, Rogoznica and on to Tribunj

Thu 2 Jul 2015 07:25
For three days we swung to our anchor in Vinišće. We had a day of high winds and a morning of thunderstorms and torrential rain but mostly the sun shone the waters were calm and there were only a handful of yachts in the bay all moored well away from us. Vinišće is a small fishing village its sheltered bay has brought in visiting yachts and a handful of restaurants have appeared in response. We had no sooner put our hook down when our first restaurateur appeared alongside in his boat with details of his establishment. A pleasant enough fellow but we preferred our second entrepreneur and it was to Kapinica that we went that evening. Just a short trip from Pamarzi in the tender to the north east side of the bay where mine host was waiting to take our line and seat us in his shore side kabano. The food was excellent, the prices very reasonable and the service charming, it became our regular haunt. The only annoyance was on our last evening when before we left Pamarzi for supper a thirty foot motor boat who had tried to anchor in various place around the bay dropped his hook well within our swinging circle and put down less than half the amount of chain that we had out. I called across in a friendly fashion whilst waving crossed arms to indicate he could not park there. They upped anchor and drew near asking what was wrong, obviously they had no idea. As patiently as I could I explained that the wind direction might change, that we had out twice the chain that they did, that we were a sail boat with eight tons of lead in a three metre keel, that they weighed three or four tons and we weighed thirty two and that our swinging patterns would be different! I’m still not sure they fully understood but they slunk away and eventually moored at the head of the bay well away from us, thank goodness.
On Thursday morning (25th June) we weighed anchor having decided to continue our northing  and headed towards the island village of Rogoznica where there seemed to be a number of anchoring and berthing possibilities. Actually Rogoznica is no longer an island as it has been joined to the mainland by a narrow causeway. We had just about enough wind to motor sail on the very slight seas, the breeze just off our starboard bow. Glancing behind I saw a yacht on the same heading as us, similarly motor sailing but with more throttle were catching us up. As the distance shortened we recognized her as an Oyster 55. They eventually came alongside to admire Pamarzi and we had a shouted conversation with them across the waves. They told us that they had been cruising these waters for the last fifteen years! Sadly their destination that day was Murter and when we told them where we were going they said oh you mean ‘Roger’s Knickers’. Upon which Lynn pointed out to them that I was Roger. We decided upon the marina and berthed stern to on a long and virtually empty concrete pontoon, although the rest of the marina was pretty full with big yachts and motor yachts. We were eating aboard but once boat jobs had been completed we went ashore to explore Marina Frapa. Pretty unusual and even quirky it was to. The marina had been created as an island with a bridge to the mainland. The long central pontoon paved as were all the pontoons in pink granite crazy paving was covered by a canopy for its entire length. Ashore was a complex of apartments, a hotel, swimming pool, restaurants,small shops and boat services. The architectural style was unusual to say the least with filigree iron covered bridges and ornamentation. We found a lively petang court and a garden full of large sculptures along the shore front. We stayed for a couple of days, exploring the island village of Rogoznica and its surrounds and enjoyed yet another very good reasonably priced meal at one of the marina’s restaurants.
We left our berth at Marian Frapa on Sunday morning and sailed to Sibenik having secured a berth for three days at the DMarin Marina. Sibenik is approached through a mile and a half long inlet which at times is little more than a hundred metres wide but then opens out into a five mile long bay with Sibenik in the centre of its north eastern bank. A river enters at its northern end which is navigable for some miles up to the town of Skradin for smaller boats, our mast is too tall for the bridges that one has to pass under. We were intending to visit the Krka falls some miles upstream but the thought of a long taxi drive and we learnt that they had become rather touristy put us off, particularly when we heard that there were some more spectacular and less commercialised falls further up the coast. We moored side on at DMarin making ingress and egress very easy. A short taxi ride took us to the old town of Sibenik with its spectacular early cathedral, fortresses, monasteries and ancient buildings which we enjoyed exploring. We had been recommended to a restaurant called Peregrini. Sitting on an airy terrace in the heart of the city as the sun slipped lower in the sky and the air above us was filled with the excited chirping of myriads of swallows chasing their insectivorous repast we dined on salmon mousse topped with a white seafood foam, marinated beef sliced so fine you could see through it served with tiny balls of pickled carrot and and red wine mousse, followed by slow cooked beef cheek served on a bed of celery puree and spinach and finally we oohed and aahed over coffee and chocolate mascarpone mousse. The wine, the service, the setting were wonderful, the food quite possibly the best we have had this year and the bill less than a pub supper at our local. 
Time came to leave and on Wednesday morning we slipped our lines and slid away from DMarin. Although we explored a couple of bays on the way to Tribunj non were suitable for us to anchor in so we found a marina berth here and intend to stay for a couple of nights before heading further northwards towards Zadar.