Trip Update - 11th January 2009 Union Island, Grenadines

Nutmeg of Shoreham
Ollie Holden
Mon 19 Jan 2009 02:00


Position: 12:35:78N 61:24:83W

 

A short afternoon sail brought us into the anchorage off Clifton, on Union Island.  A little different to the Clifton in Bristol.  The second town on Union Island is called Ashton and is apparently the same distance away from Clifton as it is in Bristol!

 

This was a windy anchorage and we anchored right on the edge of a shoal in 2.5 metres.  We dropped back into deeper water and at some point in the afternoon the anchor obviously dragged off the ledge and re-set itself in deeper water – an interesting lesson for us.  We re-anchored with more scope on a more even bottom.

 

Clifton anchorage, Union Island

 

Talking of wind, we are flush with power.  I was getting paranoid that our wind generator wasn’t producing it’s designed power but in places like this, it is regularly putting in 10A+ and combined with the solar panels, we have more than we need.  I turned the fridge up so it is freezing the beers to use up some of the power.  If only it were always like this.  I think if I did this again, I would go for the same wind generator and have at least 200W of solar panels, mounted on the guardrails on hinges.

 

The other thing that keeps us from being totally self-sufficient is water.  In the Caribbean you always pay for water, and because you aren’t in marinas every night, it usually requires a bit of effort and time to fill your tanks.  Here in Clifton, there are a couple of rickety wooden jetties where you can go alongside and fill your tanks. It isn’t particularly expensive but it is a hassle. 

 

Back on Bequia, I rigged up Mark 1 of my water-catchment system, in an effort to catch some of the rainwater that we periodically get.  When it rains, it pours here, so it is worth trying to catch some of it.  The day before we left England, Dad and Sarah sewed together an awning out of an old genoa and it hadn’t been used up to now.  But we worked out that we could rig up a funnel with some hose at one end of it and when it rained, we would catch some of this water.

 

Typically, we’d normally get the awning up and the funnel in place just as it stopped raining but on one occasion we managed to fill all our jerry cans and the big pink bucket that the kids use for a bath – about 120 litres within half an hour!

 

The girls have been quite badly-behaved these last few days.  I think it is a mix of colds/coughs brought back from the UK, and their being unsettled due to moving on every couple of days, which is reinforced by the regular goodbyes and reunions with other kids.  They also miss being in a marina (or ramina as Millie insists on calling it) where they can get off the boat and run around a lot more easily. 

 

So we took them on a good walk in Clifton, and found a nice quiet road for them to run up and down on. They decided to hold a sports day and wanted to do races up and down the hill, to the bemusement of the goats and chickens looking on.

 

The girls ashore, Clifton

 

Clifton is a ramshackle place which is well set-up for cruisers, with various jetties built for yachts and dinghies and lots of restaurants and “supermarkets”.  However it is still pretty 3rd world and is all the more charming for it.  The supermarkets remind me of ones I remember seeing in Africa, where there was nothing super about it – a small dirty room with a small selection of out-of-date goods on the shelves.  It’s not quite as bad as that but it’s not exactly Tesco.

 

The vegetable market consists of a number of brightly-painted stalls set round a small grassy field.  You can get most fruit and veg here as many items are either grown locally or imported from the US.  We tried a sweetsop, which is a large fleshy fruit which tasted a bit like fizzy sweets but had the texture of raw chicken.  We came to the conclusion that if it isn’t a popular, well-known fruit, there’s usually a good reason for it!

 

Clifton vegetable market

 

I went to Customs & Immigration to check out – Carriacou, where we are heading next, is part of Grenada.  There was a chap from another yacht in front of me, and the immigration lady charged him a fee.  He paid and left, and then it was my turn.  She was very friendly and courteous and when all the papers had been completed I asked her if I needed to pay a fee.  She said no, so I asked her why the other chap had had to pay one.  It turns out that because he had told her that he was leaving Clifton at 0700 the next day, he was charged an overtime fee – because 0700 was outside office hours!  So they charge you based on what time you say you are leaving – not what time it actually is when you do the paperwork!