Leaving Cadiz

Lady Stardust Faro-Portugal to Barcelona - 2010
Paul Collister
Sat 31 Jul 2010 17:24

Saturday 31st July


This morning we braved the hot sun and walked into town to get provisions and to visit the Oratory of the Santa Cueva (the Holy Cave). It’s an 18th century church where a subterranean cave was discovered in 1756.  This was subsequently enlarged to form an underground chapel. This contains a graphic sculpture of the crucifixion, some pews and candles and little else but very cool and peaceful inside. The upper chapel is by far the most ornate and contains three frescoes by Francesco de Goya beneath the walls of the domed chapel that I particularly wanted to see.  They are depictions of biblical scenes – one of which shows Christ and his disciples at the last supper sprawled on the floor, Roman style. 


Back out in the sun, we stumbled upon the local market while looking for a supermarket.  It was huge, crowded, noisy and colourful with smells of fruit, fish, meat and cheese. We had a lovely time picking out the fruit and veg we wanted, along with olives and a piece of fresh Corvina for Paul.  After visiting Carrefour opposite the market to buy drinks and bread we were weighed down with shopping so stopped at a bar near the taxi rank for what turned out to be the most expensive beer so far – 5.50 for two small beers.  The passage to Gibraltar will be roughly the same distance and time as the previous one. We set off - after a late lunch and a shower - at 6pm with the sun shining, the sea calm and a refreshing cool breeze.  Paul put sails up hoping the wind would increase but had to take them down again when it dropped lower.  We passed the spot where the battle of Trafalgar took place after an hour or so.  Nelson’s body was taken to Gibraltar where a 100-ton Victorian gun marks the spot where the barrel they’d preserved him in was brought ashore.  We watched the sun go down before I heated up the potato and onion tortilla we’d bought for dinner.  It began to get choppier just before Paul took over from me at midnight. The autohelm was struggling to keep on course so I had to steer manually while Paul did the log, course etc.