57:29.77N 01:47.48W Monday – quite sorry to leave Whitehills but we need to be on our way so it’s out and along the south coast of the Moray Firth. The forecast is variable winds and what that means to the crew is sail changes - full sail, one reef, shake out reef, one reef, two reefs, shake out one reef, full sail – and that’s just the mainsail! Still it passes the time and eventually the wind settles, but only after we’ve had a huge gust that opens the oven door and throws a pyrex dish onto the floor, where it breaks of course. Once we’ve rounded the point at Frazerburgh and headed towards Rattray Head the coastline changes to long sandy beaches with sand dunes, a big change to the huge cliffs of the north coast. It also gets very grey and cold. Peterhead is the complete opposite of little Whitehills, it’s a busy oil, gas and fishing port and movement in the harbour is strictly controlled. We arrive at a very busy time with supply ships leaving and another waiting outside for a berth to be vacated. Unfortunately the man on the radio has a very broad accent and we’re being thrown around in the backwash from the breakwaters so it gets very tricky for a while, but eventually we get permission to enter the harbour and cross to the marina. Photos: Rattray Head lighthouse with the sand dunes behind.