Guadeloupe

ALICE'S ADVENTURES
ANDREW AND CELIA SHARPE
Sun 13 Mar 2011 09:25
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After a lovely few days with Debbie and Mark we left them and went back to Jolly Harbour for a night where a very large dolphin came right up to the boat in the harbour.   Then round to Falmouth for another night and the inevitable customs and immigration for checking out.
 
Debbie and Mark came down to the boat and met us and we set off for Guadeloupe. They obviously weren't put off by our sail in the Spanish Rias last year and have come back for more.  We had an excellent sail over to Deshaies, averaging over 8 knots.  We went ashore to the pretty village.  Customs clearance was in a gift shop!
 
Next stop was the Saintes.  A very large turtle came close to the boat.  We got caught in a very heavy squall and saw a water spout!   We anchored in Anse du Boie Joli on Terre Du Haut by which time the sun had come out again.    We went for a snorkel which was like swimming in a tropical fish tank, so many different types of fish that I dont know the name of!  Mark made us get out of the water in a hurry though as he had seen a sea snake!    The small town was fascinating; many one room shacks on the waterfront.   Had a lovely meal at Les Petits Saints - a recommended restaurant 10 minutes walk out of the town.
 
We left after breakfast on Saturday morning and motored due to lack of wind - a very rare occurrence round here.  We were very worried as we were chased by gendarmes who came alongside the boat.  Apparently someone had reported that our mast head light was flashing (it wasn't) and that we may be in trouble (we werent)!  They were very friendly and sent us on our way.  Shortly after we saw a mother and baby humpback whales.  A great experience.  We watched from a distance as we did not want to disturb them.  These whales migrate south in the winter and give birth to their babies in warmer tropical waters then swim back up the east coast to the USA and Canada.  Adults are about 50 feet long and even the babies are 20 feet!  Apparently not many people see them so we were very lucky.   We went into Bas du Fort marina in Point-a-Pitre.  On the pontoon waiting to help us moor up were Thomas and Regula on Balu - a Swiss couple we first met in Oeiras in Portugal back in September.  This part of Guadeloupe was VERY busy.  We got a taxi to take us to Carrefour which involved going down a motorway!  The shopping mall was very similar to the one in Cherbourg - very strange.   And every thing is in Euros too.
 
 
Mother and baby humpback whales
Its not all sunshine!!
 
We decided to leave the next day as the forecast was not good for the middle of the week - strong winds and big swells again.  We motored along to Saint Francois at the eastern end of Guadeloupe.  The anchorage outside the harbour was packed out so we went into the marina and spent the night on the waiting pontoon.  The marina staff go home on Saturday afternoon until Monday so it was a free night!   A nice seaside town and buzzing marina adjoining many one room shacks in the adjoining streets.  Alice proved an attraction to the French who once again stared up at our mast!
 
We were all up at 6 and left the marina at first light to make the trip back to Antigua.  A very quick trip back although quite boisterous seas. Debbie and Mark left us in Falmouth after yet more aggravation from immigration who did not want to let them back in the country!!
 
Got back to Jolly Harbour on Tuesday and went in to the marina as all the buoys were taken.  Met up with Gavin and Pat again on Seahawk and had a lovely evening with them at the local pizza evening together with Jill on Nychea.
 
One afternoon we walked to the beach to go for a swim in the sea.  A wedding was being set up on the beach.  We waited to watch everyone arrive.  It looked lovely; sun, turquoise sea, palm trees and the wedding march played by a steel band. 
 
Another ARC boat has moored across from us on the pontoon - White Whisper - an Oceanis 46.  They only got to the Caribbean last week as they had got stuck in the Cape Verde Islands for 2 months!  There is a professional skipper on board too who has done the ARC several times.  Thank goodness it didn't take us that long!