With winds from the east and swell from the north, it took a bit of chart hunting to find a calm anchorage for a few days in Benures Bay, and then off Key Point, but it was well worth it. The shore line trees were the roosting place for dozens of Pelicans (is the collective noun a “Party”?), and they are somewhat ungainly, flopping on top of their prey or splashing down with a thump. There were plenty of other sea birds around and the waters were clear with turtles and starfish, yellow snappers and a multitude of reef fish, small and large. Ali had a bit of a thrill/fright when a 2 metre span stingray swam beneath her close inshore, but moved swiftly on….

We woke one morning to a bit of a kerfuffle alongside, with croaks and quacks, swishes and splashes. From the deck we looked down to see the food chain in glorious action – the water was absolutely boiling and swirling with tiny fish being chased and devoured by larger fish, who were in turn being swallowed by even bigger ones, and then the Pelicans were picking up their share….. and close to shore, the fishing boats were laying out their nets to ensnare what was left after the massacre!

Road Town + Village Cay Marina

We managed to squeeze a couple of days in a marina, to do some provisioning and get some chandlery to replenish the consumables like oil and filters. As with almost all the island main towns, the harbour is host to the gigantic cruise liners, towering over the port and adjacent streets. It is quite odd to turn a corner to find one looming above….

The main town hosts the Government buildings, and very nice they are too! Blocks of posh hotels and offices, restaurants and cafes, apartments and luxury brand shops surround them, and amongst all this conspicuous consumption, you nearly trip up on a cockerel and hens trailing broods of fluffy chickens around! Alternately, you step on some big animal dung! This quasi-rural under-layer seemed to be evident in all the towns we have visited in the Caribbean, however apparently sophisticated at first glance.

Watergaw