News and photos from Morocco to the Canary Islands

We left We did our usual 3 hour nightwatches. These can be
the longest, loneliest hours, or more often, the most thought-provoking and
peaceful. It is the only time on deck alone, to observe the ever-changing
sequence of the large waves rolling, watch the stars, trim the sails and admire
the phosphorescence leaving a bright path in Talulah’s wake. Days on passage are spent, again, sail trimming,
plotting courses on the chart, updating the log hourly, fishing, clearing logs
below, sitting upfront talking (weather permitting!), SSB radio contact with
other boats we know on passage, baking fresh bread, and I try to make it a rule
that once a day we all sit down for a proper cooked meal (even if the swell has
somewhat curbed our appetite!) On day 3, still not a fish landed on any of the
3 trailing lines (I sometimes wonder if the weight of the lure is slowing us
down), it was time to dig out the “jamon” (a 12 month cured leg of
pork) from the bilges, and feast on this and fresh baked bread. It was
delicious. On our 3rd night the black clouds formed
menacing shapes against the greying sky and the wind picked up quickly. Shane
and Jon have done such an excellent job re-rigging the reefing lines, it is now
so much easier to put in 3 reefs. Not-so-distant squalls form large pink
blotches on the radar. On Thursday 5th, we reached the Canary
Islands, and dropped anchor off Isla Graciosa, a remote and stunning (6x3km)
island with five beautiful volcanic cones…. Worlds away from the tourist mainstream.
Shane and Jon quickly had their snorkels and flippers on, dived down to check
the anchor, and then a swim through clear turquoise water to the island. On Friday 6th we set off early to sail down
the west coast of Lanzarote. While flaking in the anchor chain, the gas strut
blew on the windlass locker, and hit Ali hard on the back of the head. So as
the winds picked up, we set off south, cross-eyed and with a thumping headache
(me, that is!) We had our most exhilarating sail yet, as the winds gusted up
to 33 knots, and the large frothing waves broke over Talulah’s
coachroof. It was a magical and awesome 6 hour sail, as we reached 11 knots,
Talulah raced along as fast as her 41 foot of waterline and heavy load allowed,
sails, keels, wind and waves balancing one another perfectly, all the way to
Rubicon, Jon sadly left us, and we waved him off on his ferry
to We are now surrounded by lots of other yachts, all
different nationalities, and endless chatting about departure dates, landing
spots, and the best route to take across the You can knot be serious! Jon “enjoys” a
spot of fishing, after his lure got caught in his fishing line and caused an
almighty tangle. And guess what? He undid it! Ali is justifiably proud of her baps. Fresh made
bread en route. An impressive feat considering the rolly conditions. Well hello there!… dolphins cavorting around
the bows and distracting us from duties Jamon (ham)… and lots of it … with no fish
on the hook, it was time to fish this one out of the bilges Is it a sign? It’s a beautiful one if it is. Land ahoy! What a welcome sight. Volcanic formations approaching the anchorage in Isla
Graciosa, Jon about to test drive his new flippers, and a well
deserved swim in the crystal clear water. Force 7 (gusting 8) winds whipped the sea into a bit
of a frenzy as we sailed down the coast of Yep, it got a little lumpy. At least the sun’s starting to shine. Even if
the waves are still huge. Lava field and volcanic hills of Lanzarote Lava meadow, Lanzarote |