After another rolley night we were up early to sail to the south of Barbuda. We headed down to Cocoa Point. We passed the Martello tower and rounded the point into the bay by Access Beach, now called Princess Diana beach as she allegedly went there at some time. It's a pretty shell beach and perfect for a swim in the bay, before we weighed anchor to sail back to Antigua, with great memories of our time in Barbuda.
We had a good sail to Dickenson Bay, which only had one other yacht in. We dinghied ashore in need of vital provisions (gin!) which involved a very long walk. As we walked back along the beach as the sunset we managed to avoid the photos of four weddings that had just happened on the beach by Sandals resort. Back on board we enjoyed sundowners in the calm waters of the bay.
Sunday Morning,
Leaving our guests to sun themselves on the boat we went for a long walk in search of a supermarket for some much needed provisions other than gin. We followed directions from the security guard at the resort and found a First Choice, which was a large supermarket that had all we needed. Luckily as we came out with our bags the bus came. Dropping us off at Sandalls resort for no charge. We then weighed anchor and headed for the the reef in the North of Antigua, through the Boon Channel to Jumby Bay on Long Island. This proved to be a fabulous anchorage next to a very high class resort, which had good wifi in the bay. There was a good reef to snorkel on and the water was shallow making getting into the dinghy a breeze. After the rolling anchorage of Barbuda this was a relief to all on board. This was an excellent spot giving us time to relax and soak up the Caribbean vibes and sun!
Jumby Bay has a more rarified atmosphere than Dickinson Bay and the Sandalls resort. The buildings are low level and are tucked behind Palm trees and a pristine white beach. Very tasteful! But very few

 people to be seen on the beach under their parasols or in the tasteful hammocks.
Monday
We motored around the sound through shallow, reef strewn waters to Great Bird Island for more wonderful snorkelling on the reef. We spent the journey looking at the marvellous waterside private villas with their infinity pools on Long Island. It is nice to see how the über rich live, we can dream! Jenni is really getting into this swimming lark, especially when followed by cocktails (the bluer the better!) The girls had great fun trying various ways of getting into the dinghy and then comparing bruises. It was quite busy on the reef for a while and then all the day trippers disappeared and peace descended, allowing us a private swim amongst the rocks and corals. Then it was back to the boat for gin and tonics and cocktails. A beautiful spot for a barbecue on board, followed by some 'Chase the lady' (that's the card game!) The next morning we went across to Great Bird Island early and had it all to ourselves. We followed the trail up to the summit to look at the blow holes in the rock descending all the way to the sea. The Antiguan cuckoos, tropic birds and lizards are the main inhabitants, along with the Antiguan racer snakes, which we were lucky enough to see.
Tuesday
After our walk on Bird Island, we set sail down the coast of Antigua, good sunlight was required by the captain to ensure that we passed safely through the numerous reefs. We had a good fast sail down to Carlisle Bay with John exercising his helmsmanship skills again. This is another exclusive high end resort that takes up most of the bay. It is beautiful with a white sandy beach and calm waters. The buildings are set behind Palm trees and the beach has loungers with cushions. On the north side of the bay there are numerous local houses that look in need of some TLC, giving a reminder of the other side of the Caribbean that those visitors who do not stray out from their resort rarely see. Again we had a pleasant night in the bay after snorkelling around the rocky shoreline where we saw 3 more of the invasive Lion Fish.
Wednesday
After breakfast we dinghied ashore to explore the resort. We wandered around unchallenged, which was nice and went out of the large gates and to the local village. Goats, chickens and the odd duck had the run of the streets and gardens. Although the houses were brightly painted, many were in need of repair or completion! We went up the hill to get a view over the bay and had a pleasant chat with a local lady, who encouraged us to visit the nearby church. It is a Moravian Church built in the early C18 situated on the headland looking over both Carlisle Bay and Grace Bay. As we were enjoying the view the Antiguan Safari Landrovers appeared, three to start but by the time we left their were six in total, bringing the cruise ship passengers on their tour of the island. It made John's day to be able to photograph the Landrovers all lined up in front of the church to add to his growing photographic collection of Landrovers of the Caribbean.
We then went and had a drink at the resort and chatted to Michael, the Guest Relations Manager, who was there to make sure the guests were happy, a simple job it would seem as there were very few of them in the resort! Originally from Guadeloupe, he has worked in smart hotels across the world and seems to be acting as a consultant for Carlisle Bay. He did tell us it was less than half full, which seems to be the same all over the island. He gave us tips on the best places to go for the rest of our trip.
As we were on a tight timetable, it was back to the boat and sail around to Falmouth Harbour for a whistle stop provisioning tour. Then a quick lunch before sailing around to Nonsuch Bay. The winds were fairly strong and the sea quite big. We had four dolphins pay us a quick visit. We required a couple of tacks to get us into the bay as the light was fading. Not a good idea when looking out for reefs and sunken rocks. It also meant that the bay looked a bit grey, disappointing after the beauty of our other anchorages. We anchored in the SE corner in Browns Bay and a quick phone call ensured we had reservations for the 'Best Italian restaurant in Browns Bay', at Harmony Hall. So after quick showers and with our best clothes on we went in search of the restored sugar mill that is a feature of the restaurant. It turned out to be very easy to find and was just up the hill from the beach. The marquee like structure we had seen in the trees from the boat, were in fact very tasteful wooden platforms with canvas roofs with spectacular views across the bay. The food and company were excellent and we all agreed it was the best Italian in the area. A good night out and we decided that we needed to return in daylight so we could get a better view of  Harmony Hall.
After breakfast it was back up the hill to climb up the sugar mill, explore the art gallery and have morning coffees overlooking Nonsuch Bay, which looks remarkable in the sunshine. We then decided to walk round to Nonsuch resort to do a comparison with Carlisle Bay. We set off and of course had to shelter from a quick cloud burst. Just at the top of the hill is a colonial style house that is either being built or renovated, from a distance it looks imposing. Up close it was intriguing, a strange collection of extensions having been added onto the house giving it more of a feel of the Adam's family home without the turrets.
As we arrived at the gates of Nonsuch resort we were stopped by Shawn the security guard. Apparently, non guests are not allowed to walk around the resort, they must be escorted. So Billy was summoned to drive us. We were dropped off by the restaurant overlooking the bay, just in time for pre lunch cocktails. We enjoyed the view and the very smart infinity pool, but again there was a distinct lack of guests. We walked back to Harmony Hall via the beach and back trail, so as not to disturb Billy. Out of these two places, we all felt more comfortable at Harmony Hall.
As the bay looked so glorious in the sunshine we had a motor around the creeks and smaller bays that are all around it and then picked up a mooring buoy off Green Island. This is a Mecca for kite surfers who provided excellent afternoon entertainment for us. We decided that it was probably not a good idea to swim off the back of the boat as they whizzed all over the place. But watching them proofed tiring enough.

Friday
We dinghied ashore onto Green Island which is part of the nature reserve and is very unspoilt. There is abundant bird life including red billed tropic birds, night herons and ospreys. It has several beaches and fairly dense undergrowth. We followed a path, which soon disappeared, across the island to Ricketts Bay, a shell beach which is quieter than the other side where the kite surfers have their staging post. We then went off piste and went through unchartered territory through the low undergrowth to the other beach to watch the kite surfers kitting up and going off the beach to the reef. Then the boys took the long route back to our landing point, the girls went over the rocks and down the steps. We then spent a couple of hours snorkelling. There is good coral and lots of fish under the rocky overhangs caused by sea erosion. Jenni had one particular fish following her all round the bay who obviously liked the colours of her swimming costume. There was a good variety of fish and the shallow calm waters made it a pleasant swim.
A mercifully short, fast sail took us back to English Harbour. Although we were on a beam reach for most of the way there was a large Atlantic swell which made for an uncomfortable passage.

Fort James is another one of the English built defensive forts that is in a prime spot. It was for the defence of St. John's. The outer walls are well preserved and there are still some of the canons. But the Antiguans could do with some help from a body like the National Trust in how to present and renovate their historic sites, as many we have visited are in a disappointing condition and would benefit from some information boards and generally tidying up a bit. (And cafés!)

We then went to Parham, where the first European settlers from St Kitts landed. It was once the second most important port in Antigua and home of the governor. It is a quiet waterfront town with some ruins and a fantastic octagonal church, built in the 1700's. The roof is made up of a huge number of wooden batons that make it look like the inside of a coracle.

On our way to Betty's Hope, a restored plantation mill and buildings, we stopped at one of the roadside pop up restaurants. These are all over the caribbean and are run by locals under a gazebo. Jenni wanted to taste local food so what better way for authentic Antiguan cooking. Darrell had Pepperpot; a stew made with pigs tails, fungi (a type of dumpling) spinach and vegetables. He enjoyed it, but it was a bit glutinous and you don't have pigs tails for the amount of meat on them! Sarah had macaroni cheese and steamed veggies and Jenni and John had rice and black beans with chicken. All this cost 40 EC, which is about £10, and non of us had upset tummies the day after either.

Betty's Hope was deserted when we arrived. We went around the information centre and learned more about the Coddringtons, who owned the estate as well as the one on Barbuda. The sugar mill has been renovated and is stunning, but the other buildings are yet to be restored. I think many of Antigua's attractions are kept simple for the cruise ship visitors who spend about ten minutes in each place. But they can leave others who want to know more rather disappointed.

 We then went a very circuitous route to Devils Bridge. This is a natural rock arch created by the erosion of the sedimentary rock. It is about fifteen metres long and is only a metre in width. The Atlantic waves crash underneath it creating plumes up through holes and the most terrifying noises. Darrell was the only one brave enough to traverse it. The advice is not to cross it, so perhaps brave is not the right description! 

On the way back to the main road we did eventually find somewhere for an ice cream!

On the way back to Nelson's Dockyard, we headed up to Fort Shirley, in search of Eric Claptons house, but we could only manage a view of it on Indian Creek from the blockhouse. Unfortunately, the interpretation centre was closed for the day, so we headed back to the boat, where we all fell asleep in the cockpit.

Sunday

After spending a couple of hours watching a Spaniard fitting a new anchor onto his boat only to find it did not fit on the bow roller, we went and had coffee and cake for elevenses in the Copper and Lumber Store at Nelson Dockyard before visiting Nelson Museum. We then went on the historic trail around the dockyard. A cruise ship was in and the guide was telling the visitors that his tour would take just 8 minutes of their time, attention span or need to go to next stop on the itinerary?

We then headed back to Stream for a swim just in time to see lots of boats arrive and people having problems setting their anchor. As we watched one dragging across the bay for the third time we were interrupted by a small motor cruiser, owned by an Englishman, who wanted to know if we knew the Spaniards on the boat attached to their mooring buoy. When he finally got them to move off his buoy he came over and told us we were to close and he was worried that we might hit him it we swung on our anchor chain. We hadn't hit the Spaniard 45 foot boat, so Darrell couldn't see the problem. The man got quite agitated as apparently "I live here and it is my buoy" and he would like us to move before he returned from his trip. You can imagine Darrell's thoughts on this, but as Sarah started to get twitchy about the dragging boat as well as the man, we did move. The bay was certainly getting busy and by the time the motor cruiser returned he had about another six boats to be concerned about.

We spent a good afternoon swimming around the boat and watching the pelicans dive for fish. Pelicans have no eyelids, so when they dive from great heights for fish they eventually damage their eyes and go blind. Some of them then manage this by diving from rocks where they have learned that there are fish. Others just die!

Late afternoon found us going up to Shirley Heights for the weekly bash. The steel band starts playing at 4 o clock followed at 7pm by a local band. It is busy and is a great place to hang out. The food is good and Darrell likes the dark and stormy cocktails and Jenni liked the coconut water and rum cocktails. We watched a local make various items from banana leaves and enjoyed the barbecue. There are spectacular views of English and Falmouth Harbours and the sunset was fabulous. A great night was had by all.

Monday

We went ashore so that we could visit Fort Berkley, which is on the west side of the entrance to English Harbour and so Jenni and John could do some present shopping. We had a pleasant walk out to the fort, before we returned, Jenni decided it would be nice to do the mile walk over to Pigeon beach near Falmouth Harbour. So we did, what Jenni didn't realise it was up a rocky incline over the headland past several other defensive positions and then down a steep slope. More a hike than a gentle walk! It was also much more than a mile, at least there was a bar on the beach that did good fruit punch. We then wandered into Falmouth so Jenni could visit the pottery and art gallery and other gift shops. It was a relief to get back to Stream for a swim. As we sat in the cockpit we had a perfect view of a wedding ceremony on Galleon Beach just before sunset. Then it was a quick wash and brush up before heading off out for a farewell meal. Unfortunately, many of the local restaurants shut on Mondays, but a short walk towards Falmouth we found Life on the Corner, where we spent a pleasant evening. (This was run by a couple from Gatley which is near where Darrell grew up so three of us had to endure boring conversations about mutually known haunts around Stockport.)

Tuesday

Our last day in Antigua and Jenni and John's last day in the Caribbean, well at least for this year. We did all the usual change of crew things; cleaning the boat, packing, checking out, frisking the guest to make sure they are not wandering off with vital things like sail ties and shackles,  getting fuel from the fuel berth, and such like, before their final swim. After a late lunch ashore it was our final farewells.