63:07.076N 07:43.997E Kristiansund, Norway
SEPTEMBER a m
Madeleine and Martin
Fri 29 Jun 2012 19:52
Sorry for long silence, due to a misunderstanding between The Skipper and
The Owner!
Sunday 17th June – with Pat (Ellis) safely ensconced on board we set
sail for the big city, Bergen, via two frightening bridges, some high wires
slung across the fjord, dodging ferries, fishers and tugs. Tied up in the centre
of the Old Town. Returned from a trip round the sights and the fish market in
time to chase off three Japanese tourists who had actually climbed aboard and
were posing for their photographs !!**??
18th June – A grey day more than compensated for by great scenery as
we sailed 30 miles further North and anchored (then re-anchored) in an unnamed
bay in Fonesstraumen.
19th – Passed beneath two bridges barely 2.5 m higher than our
mast...heartstopping! made worse by narrowness of the gorge and two high speed
ferries barrelling past at the critical moment. Had a Glove Overboard incident,
but crew reacted with great alacrity – we must have learned something over the
years – and the casualty was recovered. Moored for lunch at Einvindvik; wanted
to see the tenth Century church but there was a funeral going on which lasted
from before we tied up until after we set sail. Up the Afjorden (cue inane quips
about no-one can Afjord to live here) and anchored at the head of an inlet in a
tiny bay between Vilnesfjordan and Sognefjordan for an incredibly peaceful
night.
20th – Still heading North, a 60 miler; we entered our chosen
anchorage at Hamnen but it was just a bit too tight for peace of mind so went on
and found a small ramshackle harbour on the minute island of Silda. There was an
honesty box on the quay and a notice informing us that if you want toilets and
showers you go to the Schoolhouse...where there was a notice on the door giving
a number to phone, and the phone is behind the white house, etc etc. We walked
right round the North end of the island instead. Magical views in every
direction.
Midsummer’s Day, and not a breath of wind. We motored round
“infamous” Statt headland – according to the pilot book it is so dangerous that
in the height of the season there are ‘escort boats’ to accompany leisure
sailors on the trip. 46 miles, and we sailed, slowly, Pat on the helm, into
Haugesfjordan and into another minute anchorage in Selvag...where Martin caught
a respectable cod! Pat gutted it, Madz cooked it –super! The mountains all round
the shores of Rovdefjordan all have snowy tops but we are in hot sun in
teeshirts.
22nd – Up anchor at the crack of, well, midday meandering through
various fjords until we tied up alongside in Saebo ; the jetty was a
work-in-progress with forests of nails sticking up. The village was much larger
than it looked from the sea, with a PO, church, old folks’ home and the
obligatory war memorial. These make sad reading in small communities where there
are often three or four names from the same family. Many of the houses had turf
roofs and, charmingly, they were full of wild flowers.
Saturday 23rd tied up in Oye in Norangsfjord . Had a fabulous meal
out in the victorian built Union Hotel. Every crowned head in Europe had
apparently slept there. Highly recommended! As we wandered back to the boat the
bonfires were lit to celebrate Midsummer, and the villagers had got together for
communal suppers. Lovely.
24th A slow start...2pm. Up the seemingly endless Hjorundesfjord and
entered a small boat and ferry harbour at Hareid. We boldly anchored right in
the middle, clear of the constant ferries.
25th – Bit of a shock, back to grey cloud. Left the harbour under
sail, Pat at the helm the whole way to Alesund entry, about 14 miles. Alesund is
a long narrow harbour surrounded by Art Nouveau building from 1905. It was
packed, and we had to raft up alongside a smaller yacht, with some difficulty;
our huge mud covered anchor came perilously close to the perspex cockpit canopy
of a motor boat owned by a rather excitable couple, but Madz smooths things over
with fair words and kindly gestures.
We hopped on board one of those ridiculous brightly painted tourist
‘trains’ that chug ponderously through the town and heard an interesting
commentary as well as seeing, from the heights, our next route through the
islands to the North. The ketch which was moored aft of us in Hjellestad was
rafted alongside us when we returned from supper, and the inside boat of the
three of us wanted to leave at 7.30 am...
Tuesday 26th – Pat is ashore ready for her early bus to the airport,
the ketch slips and waits to come alongside the quay, we have to slip too to let
the inside yacht out, so we might as well make use of this early start on our
journey to Kristiansund – and it’s only 7.30am! As we loiter out of the harbour
we manage to wave to Pat before she gets on her bus. We’ve had a super ten days
together and the photographs, if I ever learn how to post them here, will tell
their own story. |