8:09.53S 115:01.38E

Rafted three deep at dirty, smelly Benoa Harbour, we were keen to leave and head for the real Bali further north. We took a taxi ride to Kuta to see what all the fuss is about – thousands of white tourists, thousands of people trying to sell trinkets and the collection of shops that define western civilisation: McDonalds, Starbucks, KFC, Pizza Hut...... this is not what we came here for and we left after a brief nasi goreng.

We had the pleasure of drinks on board Platinum with Peter and Angela Bennett. From Perth, Peter and Angela were taking Platinum on its maiden voyage before setting sail for the Med in May next year. Their boat is beautiful – 40 odd meters of luxurious power boat.

Another pleasure at Benoa was our two visits to Carrefour – a great supermarket with just about everything under one roof. French pastries for breakfast and delicious quiche for lunch.

We left the next morning with our temporary import papers in hand having traipsed up and down the main road to customs, quarantine, navy and harbourmaster. Unusually no bribes were sought and we were on our way. Paco on board NautiBuoyToo left shortly afterwards but soon powered past us (with nearly 500hp of engines – we have 140!) An overnight stop outside a beautiful resort we arrived at Lovina Beach early the next morning. Spirit of Nina had powered through the night so we were three. We were met by small local fishing boats who guided us past the reef – just as well as my chart plotter and depth sounder had decided not to work.

Lovina is the polar opposite of Kuta. Friendly locals who are keen to do business, keen to help but not aggressive. The place is spotlessly clean. We had a great ‘sundowners’ session on Spirit of Nina after I had spent some time with Paco getting his email working. He cooked lunch for the family and we ploughed through three bottles of wine. It was a great relaxing day though my memory is a little hazy.

Yesterday we hired a minibus between the three boats and headed up into the hills. Beautiful waterfalls, the lush vegetable gardens of the interior, thousands of rice paddies and strawberries galore. We stopped at a roadside stall displaying live fruit bats, pythons, huge goannas and other less exotic animals. Lots of photos, giggles and screeches – but Simonne and I stayed firmly behind the lens.

We arrived back at the beach – via the local Carrefour! – to see that our friends on Talismano had arrived. Pierpaolo and Anna will leave with us tomorrow on a short 200Nm trip to a remote island north of Java. From there, 550 Nm, to Nongsa Point.

All well on board, all in great health and great spirit.

Guy & Simonne Sigston

S.V. Laroobaa