Klaipeda, Lithuania
Al Shaheen
John & Jenny Franklin
Tue 17 Jun 2014 05:13
We left Gdansk last Thursday 12 June in brilliant sunshine but with a cool WNW wind. The 4 mile route down river through the docks was fascinating. At the entrance we hoisted the main with one reef but soon made that two. Outside it was a close reach to clear the two TSS (Traffic Separation Schemes) and we romped along at 7-8 knots in a very lumpy sea with half of the jib rolled up.
The course for Lithuania crosses a small enclave of the Russian Federation and the port and naval base of Kaliningrad. Off the Russian coast there is a triangular area between the Lithunian and Polish borders stretching some 70 miles out to sea, designated Area 117. This area is subject to closure by the Russian authorities from time to time, especially during times when naval exercises are being held and times of closure are supposed to be published in Notices to Mariners and on Navtex. Vessels straying into Area 117 during times of closure are liable to either being arrested or escorted out of the zone. Before departure we had searched but failed to find any notice of closure so cautiously set course to maintain a distance of 20 miles from the Russian coast. Leaving Gdansk, this meant sailing a close reach course for some 60 miles before being able to free off and sail direct for Klaipeda on a much easier broad reach course - total distance 130 miles.
The sea was very lumpy and most uncomfortable, possibly because of the relatively shallow water, but the wind was giving us a boat speed of 8 knots even with 2 reefs and a part jib. This made the motion dreadful and well before dark we decided to take in the 3rd reef. In doing so in the very lumpy conditions I managed to get the main halyard wrapped around the mast steps so took the main down completely and continued at a more comfortable 5-6 knots under jib alone - later genoa.
During the night Jenny observed a presumably Russian patrol boat shadowing us, not showing an AIS signal, and two other boats later reported being shadowed by 2 helicopters. With a fleet of 10 foreign yachts the Russians probably feared a Pussy Riot or Greenpeace invasion!
Dawn in these latitudes is well before 3 am and we had a clear entrance into Klaipeda, albeit in light rain and with a nasty swell and cross sea at entrance between the moles. We had supposedly been designated berths in the Old Castle Marina which had been created in the moat of an old castle with access by a hand-operated swing bridge. There was a certain amount of confusion on arrival as the marina was "full" and no one knew the operating schedule for the bridge. However, 8 boats were eventually accommodated leaving two moored alongside in the river and we all got our heads down for a much needed sleep.