Rain, rain and more rain

NORDLYS
David and Annette Ridout
Tue 8 Jun 2004 22:57
   
Life in the Kingdom of Tonga
 
Neiafu, Vavau group
9th June 2004
 
 
I have to be honest I am trying to think of something positive to write about our second visit to Tonga.  The real reason for this is nothing to do with the country itself but due to the weather.  Jago and Claire arrived in great form from the Far East on the 29th May and since then we have had two decent days.  The rest has been strong winds and rain.
 
Leaving Nukualofa with our Norwegian friends in their Swan 44 (new version) and an hour in front of Duet (RCC) we had a fast furious reach to Kelefasia in the southern Haapai group of islands.  As we arrived the rain came down in buckets and visibility was very poor.  After some time  with darkness about to fall we decided to have a go and managed to see the breakers on the reef and find our way in.  Alas the anchorage was very turbulent as although protected from the prevailing SE wind the SW swell was finding its way  in.  Invited to dinner on Duet we had to decline as it was no time to get into a dinghy.   One of my most uncomfortable nights on Nordlys followed and at dawn we announced to the others we were leaving.  Another fast furious close reach and we were, all three of us, in Haafeva a much more enclosed anchorage off a village further up the chain.  On both of these sails it gave us some pleasure to see how we were quite considerably faster than our more modern sister and that Duet a lovely one off aluminium go fast machine was unable to catch us even on a reach.  Sorry not cruising talk!
 
Next morning after a visit to the local village and time spent at the school with the children we were invited for lunch next day by a charming 'lady man'.  These males playing female are a feature of Polynesian life that I have explained before.  Saia however did not cross dress but layed on a very interesting meal for us.  None of us had any tummy troubles despite the very basic condition of his 'kitchen'.
 
With no promise of improving weather we decided to cut and run and made our way overnight to the Vavau group.  We arrived at what should have been first light but due to heavy cloud and rain we were using radar and electronic charts to enter this maze.  The nature of these islands is different as they are high so they provide lots of secure anchorages.  Now as I write this we have been here several days have managed two dives for Claire and Jago and one night away from the main town.  However with so much unsettled weather and the whole boat becoming a breeding ground for nasty green stull, otherwise known as mould, we are back off Neiafu and have enjoyed a comparatively peaceful night.  Annette and Claire are ashore with the washing and a trip to the market planned.  For ourselves we are not worried but it is hard on our two younger visitors who were looking forward to some pleasant sailing and island exploration which we have been unable to provide them with.  They are however very upbeat and brains are being put to try and understand the rules of Marjong.  Several times the complicated version of Spider Solitaire has been successfully got out.  I always assumed that many years of solitary imprisonment with a computer was necessary to do that!
 
I write the above not in any way to bemoan our lot, in Fiji there have been floods and many people made homeless, but so that those of you in less extreme climates can see that not all is paradise in paradise.  I have managed to secure some fresh heart of palm however!  My machete is in active use.
 
Happy times to you all.
 
The Crew of Nordlys
           
Saia's mother and aunts
 
 
       
Dining with Saia.  Claire sandwiched by the owners of Embla