Since I last wrote up our story we have visited, Ua Huka, Ua Pou and Nuku Hiva from whence I write this.

On the north west corner of Hiva Oa there is a typical Marquesan Bay i.e. steep hills on the sides with a sand beach, an old, often not well tended, palm plantation and several rough houses and other signs of habitation.  Baie Hanamenu.  This  was where we dropped our hook mid morning after the short sail/motor from Tahuata.  The anchorage was rather forbidding and not a little rolly.  Ashore we discovered one old man who was keeper of the plantation and he was very happy for us to wonder around.  This was the first time we really got a glimpse of what the population must once have been.  One hundred meters behind the beach the ruins started.  Neatly laid out 'streets' of stone platforms on which the original Polynesian houses would have stood.  Masses of them.  Eventually we came to the remains of a road inland up and out of the valley.  There were no takers for a long walk up this track as it was very hot.  We retired back, that is the three of us and Stuart and Annabelle, and found the freshwater pool which  the guide book described as good for washing.  Here I managed to get a thorn in the heel of my foot.  Only a small one and I got it out immediately.

 

Next morning we parted company from Troubadour and set sail for Ua Huka.  By this time I was running a temperature and my heel was sore.  Also Annette was suffering from the dreaded NoNo bites.  These evil sand flies bedevil these islands.  Nothing is noted by the victim at first.  In twenty four hours a red bump appears and the itching starts.  This gets worse over three days during which time the bites turn to hard small lumps before slowly fading away.   At this stage Christabel and I did not suffer.  The main anchorage on Ua Huka was very forbidding and had squalls of well over twenty knots blowing into it.  In my slightly under par state I opted to abandon a visit to the village and we sailed off to the end of the island and another deserted anchorage.  There were no arguments against this course of action.  The thing that kept us enthralled was the scenery.  High cliffs, red volcanic soil and a mass of geological forms that looked as if a very inventive giant child had been at work with sand, stone and plaster of many colours.

Another rolly but breathtaking anchorage and a lovely sunset casting the red cliffs into a mass of differing shades.  Chris, the only one of us to actually ever set foot on Ua Huka, swam ashore, braved the not inconsiderable surf and walked round the deserted plantation.  Was she to regret this!

Next morning after a very mobile night due to the swirling breeze and large swell I found that there was still no question of walking on my foot although my temperature had gone.  Antibiotics were resorted to and twenty four hours plus a bit later I was mobile again.  Poor Christabel was however suffering.  Her legs and back being covered in NoNo bites.  As I write this some days later much of her skin still looks like a battlefield but the itching is subsiding.  Stuart claims it is simply a case of mind over matter not to itch these bites.  I will not repeat what Chris said behind his back.  Coming from a medical family I have always found doctors to be superb when one is really ill and absolutely useless for lesser but never the less not pleasant ailments. 

I will not go on with a blow by blow account but tell you of our visit to Mass last Sunday in the main cathedral on Nuka Hiva.  8 o'clock and the church is almost packed out.  Music is provided by some half dozen Polynesians with guitars.  The music and songs are a delight.  Many such as 'Michael row the boat ashore' we recognise.  Whether they were actually using those words in their own language we did not of course know.  The service proceeded with locals lead by a French Priest.  The service was two thirds in Polynesian and one third in French.  The Priest did not do a lot as the singing and chanting was mostly done by locals many of whom were in the congregation.  A large man sitting in front of me did a lot of the solo pieces in a lovely baritone.  The sermon was in French and although I did not grasp that much my own feeling was of a tolerant preacher saying that it is up to the individual to choose between good and evil, one has to sort oneself out in the end.  God will try and accept the result.  Annette and Christabel confirmed this after the service.  It happened to be the first communion of a lot of children and the families were there dressed in their best.  The children all in white with the girls hair being thick with flowers were a lovely sight.  After the service the Nuku Hiva equivalent of the after service chat on any Sunday outside Boldre church was a sight for the camera. 

None of us were Catholics and we had gone to see what could be described as Polynesian Church theatre but I think it would be fair to say that we all came out feeling more rested and happy with our fellow men.

The number of yachts I mentioned earlier thins out as one precedes north and to smaller off the beaten track anchorages.  The NoNos never thin out.  However it has to be realised that we are really nautical tourists.  France has chosen to make it too expensive to come to and to stay in these islands but despite the lack of others there are simply too many of us yachties these days for the locals to take us in and meaningful dialogue to be established.  I am not saying this never happens but not as often as it used to.  Accepting this the visit has been a great success despite illness and bites.  We are going to stay here in Anaho Bay for three days.  Tomorrow we will dress against the biters and climb over the 600 meter ridge to the next bay.  Here there is reputed to be a small village but most importantly an excellent restaurant run by a French lady.  Also many archaeological sites.  We will return next weekend to the main town and visit the Saturday vegetable market.  This unfortunately begins at 0430hrs and must be visited on time in order to get good produce.  Then early next week we will set sail for the 360nm, probably close reach, to the Tuamotus, or dangerous archipelago as they used to be called in the pre GPS days.  Despite our modern aids these will be interesting times no doubt and we look forward with slight trepidation to the change in scenery. 

               

 

Chris and curator of the ruins of                                !st Communion for these children                        Chat after church

the Royal Palace Nuku  Hiva discuss

the human sacrifice alter           

                   
   

 

Moon over Ua Huka anchorage                                    Old village ruins Hiva Oa                                        Scenery approaching Oa Pou

 

We appologise about picture quality but better would be unacceptable cost when sent by Iridium and this is the only way for the webdiary

to work.

 

Happy times to all our readers

David, Annette and Christabel