Minerva to Fiji

NORDLYS
David and Annette Ridout
Fri 10 Jun 2005 05:45
Minerva Reef to Savu Savu Fiji
 
Savu Savu
10th June 2005
 
 
On the morning of the 31st May Nordlys and Troubadour left this mid ocean pond and set sail for Savu Savu on the second big island of Fiji, Vanua Levu.  Taking pictures of each other going through the pass we then enjoyed a brisk broad reach before about fifteen to twenty knots of wind.  For quite a few hours we sailed at the same speed and on the same course but then as night approached our strategies differed.  For us darkness and the evening transmission to friends in New Caledonia brought a problem.  For some reason we do not understand as I write the SSB managed to cause the big alternator to burn out.  At the same time the wind died and we ended up motoring for most of the night with the tow generator streamed!  This was for me worrying and confusing.  I will not bore you with the whole of the technical details but suffice to say that in the morning we tried the alternative smaller alternator and that worked so we were not without power.  Before we had ascertained that the strange affects of the radio waves from our SSB had only affected one alternator and not the regulator nor the other alternator I had without thinking streamed the fishing line at first light.  Bingo the line and the tow gen rotor met and joined company.  They wound themselves together in no uncertain way but as we were motoring over a flat sea we managed to stop the boat and thus the rotating line of the tow gen before the fishing line broke.
 
At this stage Annette insisted I went to bed before I managed to do any more damage.  Several hours later after a lot of work she had the fishing line back in action.  I was awoken with cries of FISH as the reel screamed its tune.  Now the fun began.  We soon realised we had a real whopper on our hands.  Again as we were motoring we managed to slow the boat down to a couple of knots and we set about winding in.  I pulled on the line and Annette wound.  Between spells of the fish taking lots of line out.  After about half an hour we had him some fifty meters off the stern.  We could at this stage see he was a Mahe Mahe or Dorado as it is sometimes known and he was big.  On and on we toiled and then he was along side.  This is when we have lost them in the past as they tend to fight like hell when near the hull.  Who can blame them!  Luckily he was tiring and having lost two lures since New Zealand I had put piano wire as my trace and a big hook on the lure.  Gaffing was not easy as he thrashed around until I managed to get my gaff in his mouth and with a monumental effort pulled him aboard.  He was far too heavy to pull up with the trace even with thick leather gloves on.  A large slug of very rough Fijian brandy, bought last year in ignorance of its roughness, and his life was over.  The butchery began.  Luckily he was male which always makes one feel better.  He was 1.45 meters from head to tail and I estimate his weight at about 20 to 25 kg or rather more than a full can of diesel which I know the weight of too well by now.
 
Suffice to say that when we eventually got into Savu Savu just after first light on the third of June we were very popular as we managed to give most of the anchorage some fish despite three meals ourselves and another three in the small freezer part of our fridge.  We do not have a deep freeze as such on board.
 
I am writing this some seven days after our arrival.  The alternator has been rewound and re dioded, 12 diodes at £23 each -ouch-, in a small back yard workshop by a cheerful Indian by the name of Pillai.  The diodes came from Suva on Vitu Levu by air in 24 hours and the special wire was also brought in by air overnight. This modern transport was in marked contrast to Pillai's workshop but he seemed to know what he was doing.  Next door they were actually taking old TVs and ghetto blasters apart to repair.  Throw away society has not reached Savu Savu.  
 
We have managed to get permission to go out to Vanua Balavu in the otherwise off tourist Lau group.  The plan was to leave today but yesterday the weather deteriorated and we filled the water tanks in minutes as the rain came down in sheets.  Lightening flashed and the anchorage was generally not a pleasant place but much better than being at sea.  Thus we are giving it one day and hoping for more settled conditions tomorrow.  At 100nm it is too far to do in a day but only just an overnight  trip.  We will try to leave at about 1200hrs and sail slowly for arrival at the pass a few hours after sun up.  That is the plan anyway.
 
The other interesting thing here is the rumblings, one could say screechings in the local newspapers, as the people in power try to get a bill through Parliament that will give a pardon to all who committed outrages in the last coup.  Things are beginning to boil and we will keep the boat well stocked and be ready to go to sea at a moments notice.  Interestingly enough it is not over  Fijian/Indian arguments that the potential conflict is but over the old reactionary Chiefs with their undemocratic powers and the more democratic members of society, including the military who want to see justice and a forward looking Fiji.  Interesting times are ahead in the next few months.
 
Best wishes to all our readers,
 
David and Annette
 
 
The one that did not get away
 
Hot, muzzy making work as we motored over the big swell