Terceira to ?

NORDLYS
David and Annette Ridout
Fri 5 Jun 2009 10:06
Terceira outbound.
 
42:27N  17:18W
0900hrs 5th June 2009
 
I shall try not to be emotive about the goings on of the last few days.  To attempt this I will simply record facts.
 
Our week's stay in Praia da Vitoria was very pleasant socially and we managed to explore both this town and the main town of Angra do Heroismo.  The trouble was that we were not treated well by the weather.  A series of cold wet windy days was our lot.  Deciding that this was unlikely to change and also wanting to be on our way we however waited one more day for the wind to decrease a bit after watching a German delivery crew battle out into NW thirty knots.  So with the wind under twenty knots left at 0830hrs on Tuesday the 2nd to the waves of friends. We had not envied the Germans leaving into such strong wind and rain and now we were expecting less arduous conditions and for a while, one hour, we had them.  What we had not bargained on was that this low which had sat forever just to the north of the Azores was what they call a thundery low.  To be technical the air was arctic in origin and had crossed a lot of sea.  This slightly heats the very cold air and makes it unstable.  The result was an endless series of squalls that were very cold, very wet and up to force seven or eight.  The mean wind speed was 15/18 knots but this was a meaningless fact. On one occasion the whole sea was smoking.  Those who have experienced this will know what I mean.  Rarely have we seen it outside the tropics.  These squalls happened every hour or so for the first thirty six hours.
 
Our intention was to ride the bottom of this low and then as it petered out to probably catch some wind as we approached the North Brittany area.  This was not to be because as we battled on word came through of a new really vicious low forming at 44N 16W and moving east fast.  To cut a long story short we are as I write for the first time enjoying good conditions as we broad reach over a calm sea before a NW force 4.  The snag is that we are racing this low and we and it are due to arrive at Cape Finisterre at the same time.  It had become obvious yesterday that to carry on toward the Channel was not a sensible move at all.  Yesterday evening we were motoring in calm with a forecast of NW knowing we needed to do more than the 6 knots we were doing under engine when the wind arrived.  ENE 20 plus knots.  For a few hours Nordlys was subjected to the worst combination of wind and seas we have ever put her through. All the time we were pointing at Lisbon!  It has been that sort of passage.  So as we feel today long ocean passages are off despite beautiful conditions just now.  Yesterday as we battled to put in yet another reef we saw the head then the spiny back of a really giant Leatherback turtle.  What an amazing life of lonely solitude these creatures lead.  We have watched them laying their eggs on beaches in Trinidad and knew they made long ocean passages but to actually see this primaeval creature miles and miles from anywhere was somehow rather moving.
 
So ETA la Coruna is sometime on Sunday.  I have a feeling that this passage will finish in the way it started.  Hard work.  Behind all this is another really huge low that will effect all areas from the Azores to the Channel.  We hopefully will be snug and tasting Galician food and wine.  What a summer.  The 'crud' is unnaturally far south, I bet it is not next year when we may be within sight of land in Scotland.
 
Happy times
David