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San Blas! An archipelago with over 340 small islands, most uninhabited, on the Caribbean coast of Panama, home to the indigenous Guna (also known as Kuna) indians. This nation has its government (the Congresso) and keep many of their traditions, in spite of their daily contact with visitors. Each village has its leader (Saila) who represents the village in the general Congresso.

The trip from Santa Marta had strong winds for most of the way (208 NMiles in the first 24h) and we were ready for a rest by the time we anchored off Coco Bandero. The islands look like travel agengy postcards: calm waters (protected by the rocky reef) with perfect white sand beaches and coconut trees.

After completing clearance at El Porvenir, we went to the next Island (200m away) to buy a phone card. We landed with our dinghy and started walking among the small huts, made with tree branches, canes, palm leaves, etc., until we found a very friendly man, Juan, to whom we asked where we could find a shop. He decided to walk with us to show the directions and proudly explained in spanish that he was the village doctor. After we bought what we were looking for, he took us to his pharmaceutical plant, where he mixed the herbs, leaves, tree branches, roots, all collected in the forest, with some liquids which apparently fermentate into medicinal potions. He explained the use of each one: artritis, headache, insomnia, liver, you name it; every one has its own purpose and some are more universal, tackling several conditions simultaneously. It was very impressive and inspiring.

The local population moves around in small canoes and often approach the boats offering their artwork (embroidered squares of fabric called “molas”), fish, lobster and fruits.

One such family came up to our boat and looked particularly interested. Nestor had occasionally worked in charter boats and spoke some english. Noemi showed off her “molas”, Nestor declared that I should buy a specific one, blue with an embroidered lobster, and I should let Noemi stitch it to one of my pillows (it looked great). Amith, their 5 year old son, followed his father like a shaddow, with an immense apetite to learn.

While Noemi completed her artwork, Isabel cooked lunch, which we shared with the Gunas. In return, they offered to cook dinner for us at their home, which we gladly accepted. Nestor proudly took us (the only foreigners ashore) around his Island, introduced us to the Saila (who hapened to be his uncle) and then took us to his home, a large hut by the beach. Inside, a single open space, shared by a family of 10 people (3 generations). Several hammocks and one double bed were almost all we could see, apart from a small table in the middle, where we were served delicious grilled lobsters with a “special” sauce made by Nestor, with grilled banana and other unidentified vegetables.

As meat is a rare delicacy in the islands, we offered Nestor some meat and decided to leave the remaining part of El Jamon with this kind family, which looked truly delighted with the offer.

This day was an incredible experience for us all, which will be hard to forget, even more so for Pedro, who was enticed to take a local indian girl as spouse. When she declared that she already had 8 children, Pedro quickly found a good excuse to return to the boat but had to leave his phone number, so she can stay in touch…

We took a day trip to Linton Bay to pick up Isabel's son Pedrinho and his girlfriend Rafaela, and returned to San Blas for a few more days. Each day we sailed from island to island, exploring the shore and meeting some locals as well as other cruisers. We visited Nestor again and, following his advice, we went to Chichime and Cayo Holandes islands. As we pass Chichime, two boats lie wrecked on the reef, a stark reminder of how these waters are dangerous and poorly chartered. Time flew past and soon was time to start our last leg in the Caribbean sea, towards Colón at the entrance of Panama Canal.