Firstly, we’d like to say a big thanks to the folk of Martyrs Church in St Andrews. We’ve been informed they have made a substantial donation to VSO and it’s really humbling for us to feel so much support from the folk at home.

Anne

During the last couple of weeks’ Penelope Pitstop, otherwise known as Helmet Head, has been doing her rounds of the four schools again by motorbike.  I have been looking at class sizes, the number of qualified/unqualified teachers (unqualified are cheaper), ratio of teachers to pupils and of girls to boys, estimating the number of children in the area who should be in school and are not even enrolled and possible reasons for non-attendance. In “my” four schools, the average teacher : pupil ratio is 1:67 and the girl :boy ratio, 1:2.  Most classes are composite. Average attendance or enrolment works out at 26%, with the worst 11% and the best 42%.  Possible causes for non-attendance range from the obvious poverty of parents to early marriage of both boys and girls. There are no age restrictions here so people marry usually between the ages of 15 and 20, although it can happen earlier. In one school I heard of one boy who married at 11 and in this polygamous society, had three wives by the age of 15.  Girls are not highly valued here as it is believed they will never provide anything for a family; boys are often kept at home to look after animals. Parents’ illiteracy is another factor- they managed very well without school themselves so why bother?

Last week I issued questionnaires to head teachers and teachers which they have to fill in anonymously.  We are seeking information about school infrastructure eg whether there are toilets or drinking water; about the attitude of teachers; classroom and school management; support from parents and the wider community.  This week I collect these and go on to interview pupils. I am looking forward to that.

One morning, on our way to the closest school, my homologue asked me about corporal punishment in Britain. I told him what the position is and went on to talk about the United Nations Charter for the rights of children which Cameroon is supposed to adhere to.  When we arrived in school, he immediately pounced on one of the older boys, saying that he had moved while the national flag was being hoisted.  The boy had to kneel in front of my homologue and be whipped three times across the shoulders.  I was really shocked and dismayed by this, as it was clearly done for my benefit.

On a lighter note, one of the head teachers presented me with a live chicken which had to be hung upside down on the handlebars of the moto. God-damn (my homologue) offered to kill it for me but I wanted to see Hamish’s face when he got home.  I put her on a long lead and gave her water and millet- I feel sure her last 24 hours were very happy and Hamish’s face was indeed a picture!  She made a cracking curry!

After last week’s scandal involving the Lamido I asked G-D if there is a local newspaper. Apparently there is a monthly paper which can be bought in Maroua. When I asked how much it costs, I was told that it depends on the news that month. If it is something juicy, it will cost you more! I wonder what this week will bring….

Hamish

The “Medecin Chef” or chief physician, Anne Poppelaars has returned from her holiday in Holland. She seems very efficient and business like and is clearly committed to the work of the hospital. Although she’s here through VSO Holland, she’s been working in the hospital for four years and is married to a local guy. Sylvia, the other Dutch doctor, has announced that she’s leaving at the end of November. We think there’s a Cameroon doctor going to join the team in the next few weeks, but that’s not certain and we don’t know whether she’ll be here long term or just for a few weeks.

The last week I seem to have become more aware of cases of malnutrition. I had certainly realised that most of the children admitted here (usually with malaria) are very anaemic (for the technical, a haemoglobin over 8 grams is the exception rather than the rule). Many of these children need a blood transfusion and it’s then a case of finding a willing relative with a suitable blood group to act as donor. In consultation, I have seen several children with major growth retardation (i.e. seriously under height for their age) and I have seen my first case of Kwoshiorkor. This is a severe from of malnutrition where the child is quite bloated with fluid as a result of severe lack of protein. No doubt many of you will have seen pictures on TV of kids in the developing world seriously weakened, but bloated through starvation. In the case of the child I saw, the problem is the result of ignorance rather than lack of resources.

This week I have felt quite frustrated by my lack of progress. If I am given the lead role on the ward round or in consultation, I am very conscious that progress is slow and I feel I’m holding other folk back. Everyone is really supportive and I’ve been told it can take as much as a year to become proficient – encouraging or what!

Tuesday evening we took a stroll along to catch the tail end of the market. I was approached by a small group of men one of whom had an old plastic oil container. He opened it to reveal the contents - a noxious smelling white liquid. He was in fact offering me a taste of the local brew - "bil bil". Needless to say I declined!

We’re now into the dry season here and the countryside which was quite green a month ago is turning brown and dusty. The fields are being cut and our house has become more exposed. We have had fencing put up using “seco” which is woven from dried grass. This gives a good screen providing a bit more privacy and helping to keep the snakes out of our garden. We have been told there are komodo dragons in the grounds of the houses here, but so far we haven’t seen one. Apparently they’re good for getting rid of snakes so Anne feels well disposed towards them!

The harvest is manual as is the planting. They are already planting the next crop of millet and this involves making holes in the hard ground using a long wooden spike and planting one plant per hole – hard physical labour.

We have now had a trip to Rhumsiki, a local beauty spot with spectacular scenery. We had a five hour guided walk into the valley below the village which included an opportunity to see local craftsmen at work. We also saw inside a traditional house – fascinating. It was a great break and if anyone comes out to visit us this trip is a “must”. Mind you, the journey there is a bit of a challenge with two sections of dirt track, one of 45 minutes, the other two hours. When I say dirt track, think of a forestry commission road as being like a motorway in comparison and you’ll get the idea!