Bodo to Brekstad

Rosinis heads to Svalbard
Bob Hendicott
Wed 22 Aug 2018 08:44
Giles got away as planned and Chris arrived later the same day, almost as planned with just a slight delay in his flight because the pilot thought the brakes had seized on whereas he was just parked in a rut and hadn’t pushed the throttle lever far enough forward!
 
We left Bodo on Saturday morning in fine clear conditions and were soon re-tracing our route north but in reverse.  Strong winds of 30 knots were forecast from the west in the evening and we were relishing the prospect of a fast reach south under much reduced sail.  By 2100 we had re-crossed the Arctic Circle under a beautiful sunset reflecting pink light onto the mountains to our east, as we followed a course through the rocks in the inner leads.  By just after midnight the wind had increased as expected, but was more from the south west and was making progress slow, so we altered course to slightly more open water.  The intention was to get out to sea before the wind came round to the west in the expectation that we would enjoy a sleigh ride south once the wind shifted.  It didn’t quite work out that way as the wind strengthened and strengthened.  There was no possibility of making progress in such conditions and we were in danger of suffering damage which would have been disastrous on such a rock-strewn lee shore, so we turned and ran with the wind, Chris struggling valiantly with the tiller while I tried to pilot us through narrow rocky channels at crazy speeds in almost nil visibility as the wind rose past 40 knots and peaked at 53 knots.  Our only safe option was to avoid fjords with dead ends and keep going until we could find shelter that we could get into safely.  After many hours, we finally found a bay where the wind was only 30 knots and managed to get the anchor down.   By now it was daylight and we were both exhausted, but we were safe and had suffered no damage.  It wasn’t an experience either of us would wish to repeat.  We were ‘holed up’ in our anchorage for 24 hours before the extreme conditions abated and it was clear that we’d be pressed to make it to Brekstad in time to meet Barney on Tue evening. 
 
We finally got away on Mon morning and had a really enjoyable sail south, managing the fast reach we’d hoped for two days’ previously and spending most of the day under sail at between 6 and 7 knots: what a contrast!  Whilst Barney had managed to find accommodation to await our arrival we needed to press on to avoid putting ourselves under pressure subsequently, so we kept sailing and managed to make similarly good progress throughout Tuesday, only assisted by the engine when the wind died.  We eventually arrived at Brekstad in the early hours of Wednesday, only a few hours after we’d planned, but without making any stops other than our enforced pause courtesy of the weather.  Barney had arranged B&B and the hotel, right on the quayside, kindly offered Chris and I showers in the morning.  So we’re now waiting for the latest weather system to pass through before we head on south.  Next stop Alesund.
 
The attached photos are few as the most memorable part of the past few days didn’t lend itself to photography.  They show the high standard of amenities enjoyed by the Norwegians in their pursuit of the ideal outdoor life, a couple of views of the mountains at sunset, and none of Brekstad which is not worthy of photos in the wind and rain.

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