Exploring the ice and Svalbard's heritage, then south again

Rosinis heads to Svalbard
Bob Hendicott
Thu 26 Jul 2018 06:52
Our last blog post was a short update as we reached the northern-most point on our expedition at 80N, but we’d packed a huge amount into the preceding 48 hours, so this post aims to cover the few days prior to that, then bring you up to date.  Right now, as I start this update, we’re at sea and beating south into a F5/6 and have been doing so for almost 24 hours.  The West Spitsbergen current is also against us, so it’s slow going and uncomfortable. We’re heading for the Russian mining settlement at Barentsburg but still have a long way to go. 
 
But to wind the clock back to 22 Jul.  When we left Ny Alesund in the bright sunlight at 0130 three days ago we motored to Kongsvegen glacier, winding our way through calved ice to get as close to the face of the glacier as we could.  It was amazing and we were lucky to witness three calvings of massive sections of the ice wall into the sea, each creating a mini tsunami.  We also spotted a bearded seal on an ice floe and managed to manoeuvre Rosinis to within a boat’s length without it showing any signs of concern.  Our plan then had been to anchor close to the foot of the Blomstrand glacier, but we found our way barred by ice that we weren’t prepared to push through for risk of damage, so we returned to Ny Alesund in time for breakfast and some sleep, just in time to avoid fog and drizzle.  Our decision to go had certainly paid off.
 
In the afternoon (still 22 Jul) we headed off again, this time for the Lilliehook glacier at the head of Krossfjord.  Initially the visibility was still poor but it improved rapidly and by the evening we were again in a field of calved ice, this time right in the centre of the almost semicircular face of this huge glacier, in clear with bright sunlight.  For a while we drifted with the engine off, listening to the popping and cracking of the drifting ice all around us, and then we took the opportunity to practice with our rifle, firing two practice rounds each into nearby ice, each shot echoing around the mountains.  After soaking up the atmosphere we headed back down Krossfjord before turning north again for Magdalenefjord in a clear dry night.  As we headed north two beautifully restored Swedish cargo ships passed, one in each direction as we made our way past the seven glaciers that tumble seawards on this part of the coast.  At our new destination we spotted a yacht we’d been with in Longyearbyen and Ny Alesund sitting in the anchorage at Trinityhamna where there are ancient whalers’ graves, but as it was still clear and bright we headed straight on to the glacier.  It was now 23 Jul.  Once again in amongst calved ice, we launched the dinghy to take photos of Rosinis and after admiring the Wagonway glacier (so called because its medial moraines look like the wheel tracks of a rather wonky wagon) we headed back to Trinityhamna and anchored.  Soon we had the place to ourselves: a secluded and beautiful anchorage.  The weather was still good so we had breakfast and headed ashore to visit the graves and climb to the nearest glacier for aerial views of the fjord.  As we attempted to walk along the beach we were thwarted by persistent attacks by arctic terns, so turned back and headed straight up the mountainside, but not before spotting a couple of walrus (walri?) on an ice floe beyond the small spit of land sheltering our anchorage.  As we returned on board following our climb the rain started, and yet again our decision to ‘seize the moment’ had paid off: this was becoming something of a mantra for this stage of the trip.  Magdalenefjord is magnificent with proper mountains all around rather than the stony grey heights we’d seen around Longyearbyen and Ny Alesund.  We slept for a short while to allow the worst of the rain to blow through, then decided to continue our passage north to our next destination, Virgohamna, just 15nm away.  Our logic was that the nights seem to be clear and the days foggy and drizzly, so we’d aim to get there in reasonable weather.  Giles was on ‘galley duty’ so he stayed below to prepare supper as Meryon and I took us north.  Even in the few hours it took to reach Virgohamna the weather improved and by 2100, still on 23rd, we were at anchor there.  It’s a grey, sombre place but with some of Svalbard’s richest history.  In the 17th century whaling for bowhead whales had been centred here and the remains of shore works could be seen, plus open graves of Dutch whalers’ remains (not as gruesome as it sounds).  Two early 20th century attempts to reach the North Pole had also been made from here and the remains of airship and balloon hangars could be seen, together with remnants of airship gondolas and hydrogen processing plants.  In awe of those who had headed north by air from here, often not to return, we headed back to Rosinis just before midnight.
 
Our intention then had been to sleep and make a dash for 80N (only 18nm ahead of us) the following morning, but a quick look at the forecast suggested we should ‘seize the moment’ once more as the following day looked poor.  So at 0030 on 24 Jul we weighed anchor again and motored out in the most incredible light conditions.  On the beach as we turned north we spotted a walrus colony, some wallowing on the shingle and one in the water.  As we approached the 80th parallel a light breeze filed in and we were able to sail with spectacular views astern to the mountains and islands of NW Spitsbergen and on our starboard side right across the north towards Nord Austland.  Ahead it was just open Arctic Ocean, and this takes us to the point at which we sent the previous blog – our crossing the line at 0415 on 24th Jul. 
 
Back to the present.  It’s now 0600 on 26th Jul and we’re in Barentsburg moored alongside a trawler-style charter yacht having arrived just before midnight.  I’m up early, unable to sleep as our mooring lines creak in the stiff breeze, but there had been little else to do but sleep when off watch in the long flog south and rest isn’t something we’re been short of.  The weather has turned for the worse and our passage south took over 220nm through the water, beating into strong winds and fighting the adverse current for 44 hours, to gain no more than 130nm.  Most of the time it was wet and cold with poor visibility - another reminder of just where we are - and we weren’t even sure the mooring arrangements here would be safe in the conditions, but we’re fine.  We haven’t been ashore yet, but first impressions are of a heavily industrialised settlement with commercial quays exposed to the fjord offering little shelter to small vessels such as us, and strong evidence of coal mining operations.  The crew of our neighbouring vessel returned late last night having enjoyed Russian hospitality (and vodka) and said it’s much more interesting ashore than it looks from here.  We’ll be exploring this morning.
 
One advantage of being here is that we do have a phone signal so can send photos, attached as follows: in the ice below Kongsvegen glacier; the glacier calving into the sea; a mystified bearded seal; the magnificent Lilliehook glacier; rifle practice; Rosinis in the ice at Magdalenefjord; fighting off arctic terns at Trinityhamna; our Trinityhamna anchorage from the glacier above; wreckage of the airship hangar at Virgohamna; walrus on the beach; the view south from 80N, and our approach to Barentsburg after 44 hours of beating into F5/6.

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