Exploring the ice and Svalbard's heritage, then south again
Rosinis heads to Svalbard
Bob Hendicott
Thu 26 Jul 2018 06:52
Our last blog post was a short update as we reached the northern-most point
on our expedition at 80N, but we’d packed a huge amount into the preceding 48
hours, so this post aims to cover the few days prior to that, then bring you up
to date. Right now, as I start this update, we’re at sea and beating south
into a F5/6 and have been doing so for almost 24 hours. The West
Spitsbergen current is also against us, so it’s slow going and uncomfortable.
We’re heading for the Russian mining settlement at Barentsburg but still have a
long way to go.
But to wind the clock back to 22 Jul. When we left Ny Alesund in the
bright sunlight at 0130 three days ago we motored to Kongsvegen glacier, winding
our way through calved ice to get as close to the face of the glacier as we
could. It was amazing and we were lucky to witness three calvings of
massive sections of the ice wall into the sea, each creating a mini
tsunami. We also spotted a bearded seal on an ice floe and managed to
manoeuvre Rosinis to within a boat’s length without it showing any signs of
concern. Our plan then had been to anchor close to the foot of the
Blomstrand glacier, but we found our way barred by ice that we weren’t prepared
to push through for risk of damage, so we returned to Ny Alesund in time for
breakfast and some sleep, just in time to avoid fog and drizzle. Our
decision to go had certainly paid off.
In the afternoon (still 22 Jul) we headed off again, this time for the
Lilliehook glacier at the head of Krossfjord. Initially the visibility was
still poor but it improved rapidly and by the evening we were again in a field
of calved ice, this time right in the centre of the almost semicircular face of
this huge glacier, in clear with bright sunlight. For a while we drifted
with the engine off, listening to the popping and cracking of the drifting ice
all around us, and then we took the opportunity to practice with our rifle,
firing two practice rounds each into nearby ice, each shot echoing around the
mountains. After soaking up the atmosphere we headed back down Krossfjord
before turning north again for Magdalenefjord in a clear dry night. As we
headed north two beautifully restored Swedish cargo ships passed, one in each
direction as we made our way past the seven glaciers that tumble seawards on
this part of the coast. At our new destination we spotted a yacht we’d
been with in Longyearbyen and Ny Alesund sitting in the anchorage at
Trinityhamna where there are ancient whalers’ graves, but as it was still clear
and bright we headed straight on to the glacier. It was now 23 Jul.
Once again in amongst calved ice, we launched the dinghy to take photos of
Rosinis and after admiring the Wagonway glacier (so called because its medial
moraines look like the wheel tracks of a rather wonky wagon) we headed back to
Trinityhamna and anchored. Soon we had the place to ourselves: a secluded
and beautiful anchorage. The weather was still good so we had breakfast
and headed ashore to visit the graves and climb to the nearest glacier for
aerial views of the fjord. As we attempted to walk along the beach we were
thwarted by persistent attacks by arctic terns, so turned back and headed
straight up the mountainside, but not before spotting a couple of walrus
(walri?) on an ice floe beyond the small spit of land sheltering our
anchorage. As we returned on board following our climb the rain started,
and yet again our decision to ‘seize the moment’ had paid off: this was becoming
something of a mantra for this stage of the trip. Magdalenefjord is
magnificent with proper mountains all around rather than the stony grey heights
we’d seen around Longyearbyen and Ny Alesund. We slept for a short while
to allow the worst of the rain to blow through, then decided to continue our
passage north to our next destination, Virgohamna, just 15nm away. Our
logic was that the nights seem to be clear and the days foggy and drizzly, so
we’d aim to get there in reasonable weather. Giles was on ‘galley duty’ so
he stayed below to prepare supper as Meryon and I took us north. Even in
the few hours it took to reach Virgohamna the weather improved and by 2100,
still on 23rd, we were at anchor there. It’s a grey, sombre place but with
some of Svalbard’s richest history. In the 17th century whaling for
bowhead whales had been centred here and the remains of shore works could be
seen, plus open graves of Dutch whalers’ remains (not as gruesome as it
sounds). Two early 20th century attempts to reach the North Pole had also
been made from here and the remains of airship and balloon hangars could be
seen, together with remnants of airship gondolas and hydrogen processing
plants. In awe of those who had headed north by air from here, often not
to return, we headed back to Rosinis just before midnight.
Our intention then had been to sleep and make a dash for 80N (only 18nm
ahead of us) the following morning, but a quick look at the forecast suggested
we should ‘seize the moment’ once more as the following day looked poor.
So at 0030 on 24 Jul we weighed anchor again and motored out in the most
incredible light conditions. On the beach as we turned north we spotted a
walrus colony, some wallowing on the shingle and one in the water. As we
approached the 80th parallel a light breeze filed in and we were able to sail
with spectacular views astern to the mountains and islands of NW Spitsbergen and
on our starboard side right across the north towards Nord Austland. Ahead
it was just open Arctic Ocean, and this takes us to the point at which we sent
the previous blog – our crossing the line at 0415 on 24th Jul.
Back to the present. It’s now 0600 on 26th Jul and we’re in
Barentsburg moored alongside a trawler-style charter yacht having arrived just
before midnight. I’m up early, unable to sleep as our mooring lines creak
in the stiff breeze, but there had been little else to do but sleep when off
watch in the long flog south and rest isn’t something we’re been short of.
The weather has turned for the worse and our passage south took over 220nm
through the water, beating into strong winds and fighting the adverse current
for 44 hours, to gain no more than 130nm. Most of the time it was wet and
cold with poor visibility - another reminder of just where we are - and we
weren’t even sure the mooring arrangements here would be safe in the conditions,
but we’re fine. We haven’t been ashore yet, but first impressions are of a
heavily industrialised settlement with commercial quays exposed to the fjord
offering little shelter to small vessels such as us, and strong evidence of coal
mining operations. The crew of our neighbouring vessel returned late last
night having enjoyed Russian hospitality (and vodka) and said it’s much more
interesting ashore than it looks from here. We’ll be exploring this
morning.
One advantage of being here is that we do have a phone signal so can send
photos, attached as follows: in the ice below Kongsvegen glacier; the glacier
calving into the sea; a mystified bearded seal; the magnificent Lilliehook
glacier; rifle practice; Rosinis in the ice at Magdalenefjord; fighting off
arctic terns at Trinityhamna; our Trinityhamna anchorage from the glacier above;
wreckage of the airship hangar at Virgohamna; walrus on the beach; the view
south from 80N, and our approach to Barentsburg after 44 hours of beating into
F5/6. |