Saturday 9^th February

What a couple of days we have had. Yesterday, Kellie and Joshua from Sea Glass and I walked up Dunang Awe, the active volcano on Sangihe. Setting off at 6.30 am we left Tahuna and the morning traffic with smiling school children waving and taxis beeping for the quiet country road of the village below the volcano. We walked through dry rice beds, past coconut drying sheds and cows with their carts attached ready for a day’s work to the base of the mountain. Peace gave way to cicadas shrieking in the early morning humidity as we started the serious climb. Tom, our leader, used his machete to hack a path in places through stands of clanging bamboo, feathery ferns, spiky Pandanus and vines wrapping their way around everything. The thick forest gave way to clumping grasses for the last steep climb up the slippery rocky slope just when we thought we could go no further. Amazing views greeted us of the steep path we had climbed, the coast below and islands beyond. We lookrd at the crater, a near perfect circle with one side blown out in the last eruption in 1966, with the clouds blowing through its 4600 feet, and enjoyed feeling cool in the breeze. A small lake next to mass of ash and lava in the bottom was the vent from the earth, ready to erupt again at some point.

At 4.30 we finally reached the village after many ’15 minutes to go’ from Jelprie, our guide. My knees no longer bent and I don’t think my legs would have carried me much further down the steep slippery path. We were very relieved when Tom shimmied up a coconut tree to collect us fresh coconut to drink and very pleased to sit in the taxi van back to town.

The evening with promises of traditional instruments made of bamboo which didn’t eventuate, was spent at a ‘celebration’ of Thanksgiving. Translated, that means a long church service! Beautiful decorations made of bamboo leaves, nice singing, offerings and delicious dinner saved the rather long evening for very tired bodies.

Today we set out again with Jelprie to see the Tarsier, a nocturnal monkey with huge eyes and a head that can turn 360 degrees. With a pretty walk in the forest we gave up and went to see a waterfall. ‘Just 600 metres’ Jelprie promised, but he just forgot to tell us it was up a river and through a couple of pools!! The other girls and Sea Glass boys declined going through the pools but Phoebe braved it on Jelprie’s shoulder as he balanced on a log. Rather an alarming sight from behind. Not to be out done, I stripped off my shorts and we got to the waterfall, an amazing sight, straight down a sheer cliff and being able to sit behind it and swim in the beautiful pool in its ferocious spray.

The day finished, as usual after much waiting while being fed delicious samosas, where we were able to give our last clothes and school supplies to a local orphanage. Dinner of ‘nasi’ (rice) and fried fish was delicious for the hungry hordes.

Tuesday 12^th February

We are now on our way to Borneo across the Celebes Sea after leaving Tahuna yesterday morning to snorkel on an underwater volcano. Seeing the sulphur and bubbles rising from the rock and listening to the noise of the bubbly water was quite freaky. Dark waving algae grew around the vent so the whole area had a mysterious feel. The surface further from the vent was of huge rocks, presumably pushed up from the earth, covered in new corals in blues and yellows and a few starfish and small fish. The shelf, as it dropped into the deep blue, was teeming with fish life. Huge bloated Puffer fish buzzed around, enormous dark Giant Trevally schooled next to smaller Triggerfish and Jeremy saw a Black Tipped Reef Shark cruising the waters. The mass of colour and action was enthralling in the rich clear water where the visibility was phenomenal. Quite an experience to be so near the power of the earth and as we pointed out, the girls don’t realise how lucky they are!

The crossing so far has been very uneventful with a big added bonus of two to three knots of current behind us, pushing us along, which will certainly cut a few hours off our trip. The sea last night was a little sloppy, rocking the boat around, but it has flattened out now for a comfortable trip. Learning to sew and make little bags, Lego, reading and movies have been the activities to fill the hours of sailing for the girls while Jeremy and I take it in turns to sleep, ready for the night watch. Many small fishing boats are out tonight, 150 miles from land, so the fishing must be excellent. Nothing has landed on our rod yet!