Kavieng area

SV Nalukai
Jeremy, Iona, Phoebe, Hatty & Willow Levinson
Mon 26 Nov 2012 06:44

Saturday 24th November

On Monday, Luwina showed us around Nusalik Island where we enjoyed the great blowhole with water shooting up like a geyser as it hit the rugged limestone cliff. It was a hot walk through thick rainforest of coconuts, pandanus and sea almonds with thick vines, basket ferns, stag horn ferns and Rhaphidophora climbing in the trees. A rusty old cannon left by the Japanese is another reminder of the brutal war in the Pacific.  We picked Mum from the airport later on, true PNG time an hour late, much to everyone’s excitement. It has been a very relaxing few days with Mum on board reading lots of books, looking at all the school projects and many hours of chatting. On Tuesday Mum survived a shopping expedition into a rather dirty Kavieng with potholes everywhere, rubbish needing to be collected and blaring music coming from the music shop. Ice creams and fresh bread were a treat before heading to the market to stock up on unidentified greens, pineapples, paw paws and pomelos. Coconuts and betel nut is a popular commodity displayed on pieces of plastic on the ground! A lovely dinner at the resort again might be our last bit of luxury for awhile!

Unfortunately we have had lots of rain, good to fill the tanks and still warm! We have shown Mum a few islands, Ungan, Kaberton and Nusalomon and have experienced wind for the first time in months.  We haven’t really made the most of their sights but have enjoyed swimming and snorkelling. The usual array of fish and interesting shaped coral was to be seen as well as spaghetti worms, a painted rock lobster hiding under a plate coral, a mottled looking razorfish swimming vertically and small schools of Moorish Idols, butterfly fish and bannerfish. The girls loved swinging high on a frayed rope swing attached to a coconut tree, over the water at Nusalomon Island. A bait ball of sardines schooled in the shallows and we loved feeling them flick past as we swam through. Rensen, who owns the island, thought Mum looked like the queen. Not so sure she was pleased about that!!

Monday 26th November

Yesterday morning we motored to Nanavaul Island for church. Arriving in the pouring rain looking like we were in a wet T shirt competition, we enjoyed the harmonious, raucous singing accompanied by a band, before a rather a long sermon in Pidgin English. Jeremy was asked to speak at the end and then we were in the receiving line to shake everyone’s hands on the way out!  We had a warm farewell with most of the community waving to us from the tree lined shore. After lunch we had a fantastic snorkel where we saw many new species of fish, feather stars, sea stars and sea anemones. The new sea anemones were Magnificent sea anemone and Mertens sea anemone; sea stars were Horned sea star, Echinaster Luzonicus and Linckia Guildingii; feather stars were Comanthnina schlegelii and Comaster Multibrachiatus. An Orange anemone fish added to the excitement!

Another lovely snorkel this morning at Liseno Island No. 1 (02.39.891S. 150.44.037E), where we arrived yesterday afternoon, where there is a small resort.  It is well preserved by the owner who encourages the locals not to fish or dynamite which apparently was common in the past. As a result it was probably the best coral we have seen with some big fish. Most of them don’t get a chance as they are caught before they reach size! Big Batfish, Parrotfish and Striped Sweetlips were cruising around amongst the sea anemones, feather stars and big colourful coral. Back to Kavieng today so Mum and I can go to Lae tomorrow to see where my Grandfather is buried. Jeremy is staying with the girls to pack up ready to head off on our next leg towards Indonesia.  

Hatty has enjoyed having Nonna on the boat because “I liked snorkelling, reading books, swimming and sitting at the table eating dinner outside with her. It’s been raining but very hot. When I was snorkelling I have seen a sea snake, pipefish, and sea anemones with anemone fish living inside and sea stars.”  Phoebe loved having Nonna on the boat “and getting up in the morning and her reading to us. We liked drawing pictures, going for a swim in the cool water in which we can see the bottom and playing games up the front.” Willow loved snorkelling and seeing the beautiful coral and colourful fish. “I saw a Striped Surgeonfish, split banded Cardinal fish and a Hump headed Parrotfish.”