Arrived into Kangerlussuaq into 18 degrees of hot sunshine. Ms.O’M who was in her thermals in readiness for the 4 degrees predicted by the crew needed a cold beer at 9am to cool down. After a 5hr wait we continued on a very small plane (a 25 seater), landing in Ilulissat early afternoon. Got settled on the boat after an ungraceful scramble down a long metal ladder, across 2 smelly fishing boats and a small discussion with a fish hold.

Took a trek to the Ilulissat Icefjord, a Unesco site. Wonderful views down over the bay. Many large icebergs floating. Dinner that night at Mamatuk, a local tapas of smoked seal and whale blubber, dried reindeer, musk ox pate, hot salmon, lump fish row, creamed cod liver and dried halobot.

 

Headed North in glorious sunshine, not a breath of wind and the sea like a mill pond. This stretch of water can be the worst are for ice bergs and brash ice. Motored into Rode Bay (Oqaatsut). After a celebratory lunch for Ms.O’M’s birthday, we headed ashore to walk around the settlement. Listening to the icebergs calving in the bay. The settlement consisted of several local houses, cod drying on frames and their sleigh dogs chained up nearby waiting for winter. 4 hour motor to Atta Sund where we spent the night.

 

Next morning did a hilly hike with mozi nets firmly in place which were badly needed. Stunning views of Eqip Glacier at the top to which we intended to get to later. Progress hampered by enormous amounts of brash ice from Eqip Glacier. But we eventually arrived of the face of this most amazing sight. Had lunch listening to the constant thundering  noises and groans of this glacier moving slowly down. We were the on;y boat around except for a small fishing boat. Ended the day back at Atta Sund where Carla and Mike caught 3 cod. Which we ate for dinner.