Nuku Hiva
Jarek
Thu 21 Aug 2003 05:28
Yesterday, we left Baie Taiohae, Nuku Hiva, heading for Tuamotus. We are
buddying with Andrzej on s/y "Panika" . Our boats are same size, so the
speeds are almost the same and we stay within the range of VHF. The full
moon is over and so are the strong, gusty winds. We are broad reaching, with
winds 10 - 15 knots.
A few minutes ago Andrzej hailed us on the radio: he has just caught a big
mahi-mahi! We are turning around to meet him and pick up good part of the
catch, as he has no fridge. A lot of food for all of us!
Now, let us go back in time a bit: Two weeks ago, instead of stopping in Ua
Pou, I decided to do the clearance in Taiohae, Nuku Hiva, as my friend
Andrzej was waiting there. Clearance was easy and we did not have to pay the
bond. Meeting Andrzej after so many years was quite an event. Celebrations
lasted two days, even though my participation was greatly moderated by my
asthma condition. Then, we left for another "most beautiful in the...",
Anaho Bay. The anchorage in a cove behind high cliffs of Motoohotu (a
promontory) is very calm - no rolling at all! It is so pretty here, that I
am not even going to try to describe it. As a bonus, we have full moon, too.
The change of colors and play of shades on the slopes and cliffs of the bay
as the full moon is rising up is just incredible. We do the usual: relaxing,
swimming, hiking, fixing this and that on the boats, reminiscing, discussing
plans for the future. Initially, it was only our two boats in Anaho Bay,
now - there are six. They are crewed by rather young people, mostly in their
twenties. Some of them are really good guitar players. We had dinners
together with Stephanie and Leo. Stephanie and we took care of the food and
Leo played his guitar and sang Italian songs. With the full moon up in the
sky it was incredibly romantic!
Next evening, three musicians: Leo, Patrick and Miguel gave us a real
concert which lasted until midnight: guitars, drums, a recorder, a
harmonica - what a treat!
On Monday we bid good by to everybody and left for Taiohae to buy some
provisions before leaving for Tuamotus. Our new young friends are an
interesting bunch: leaving on the fringe of the society, they support
themselves by occasionally doing some odd jobs. They do not drink much, as
it takes money. Their boats are rather basic but well maintained. They are
quite clever in getting food: fishing and hunting wild goats or pigs,
collecting sea birds eggs and so on. No fridge on the boat is a rule, so
they dry fish and meat, marinate or pickle it in brine. They seem quite
generous in shearing whatever they have with others and refuse to take more
than they need at the moment. It looks more like sharing than bartering. Of
course, they also shop in stores, occasionally.