Isla Isabela, Galapagos
Jarek
Sat 12 Jul 2003 16:25
We left Isla Isabela yesterday, about 5 pm. This is the second windless
night and we are motoring again in hope to find more wind further south. No
much wind during the day, either.
Isla Isabela was awfully nice, although somewhat dusty (not too good for
asthmatics). The entrance to Puerto Villamil seemed impossible on my chart
(granted, too small a scale) but in reality was well marked and safe. The
harbor is unexpectedly well protected.
We did an all day trip to the volcanos (Sierra Negra and Chico) in a group
of five guided by Jose. It was interesting and entertaining; a small truck
took us to the end of the roads then we rode horses for a couple of hours
and eventually walked through Volcano Chico trail. Next day we went on our
own by dinghy to Las Tintoreras, a group of small islets sheltering Pto.
Villamil from the South. There is a nicely designed trail there and a lot of
wildlife to see: sea lions, penguins, white tipped sharks (vegetarians!),
sea iguanas, beautiful red crabs and a lot of birds. We have read everywhere
that wild animals in Galapagos are not afraid of humans. In reality, they
all kept a good distance from us, except for a big sea lion which, perhaps
annoyed by his cameras, suddenly dashed towards Przemek who deftly kept the
distance.
The Giant Tortoise Breading Center in Isla Isabela is a must to see, with
baby galapagos in cages protecting them from rats, five to ten years
youngsters and the older ones "running" free in the corrals, and also their
giant parents. They all seemed much more lively than their cousins in San
Cristobal. There is a three-quater mile trail winding through lagoons
inhabited by pink flamingos and other beautiful birds which leads to the
Center, a real nice alternative to the dusty road.
Przemek went on a snorkeling trip to lava tunnels, quite spectacular, he
said. I decided that the water was way too cold (Humbolt Current), and did
some work on the boat, instead.
During our six day stay, a small cruise ship and a nature tour boat stopped,
each for a one day visit. There were tourists in town who arrived by boat or
plane. Ours was the only sailboat in the harbor and, we were told, the last
before the rainy season, due about a week ago. A French boat arrived on the
day of our departure, though. We could have easily enjoyed at least one more
week in Isla Isabela.
PS. A couple of hours later a favorable wind came and we started moving west
real fast.
Saturday, July 12, 2003
The good winds are still with us. We made 134 miles (24 hrs.) on July 11.
Our position today @ 3pm GMT was S01*59' and W97*43'. NB. Since we have left
Bay of Panama, the temperature hovers around comfortable 80 F.