Galapagos
Jarek
Wed 2 Jul 2003 16:48
We are about 300 miles NW of Galapagos, on a port full and by, moving
nicely at 6 knots about 10 degrees off the course. Nice change, as for a
week the wind was strait at the nose - each tack was equally little
productive.
Yesterday, about 180 miles away from Columbia, we spotted a small boat
with an outboard moving to and fro. It certainly looked like she was sent
to scout the sea for potential victims by a Colombian mother pirate ship.
A fishing boat would not venture that far into the sea? They waved to us
from a distance and went away. Few hours later, about 5 pm, we sighted
another boat, quite similar. It was obvious, we were being set up for a
nightly attack. Then, the boat came closer. They did look like fishermen
and wave us to go to the right to pass their nets. Then, we realized, that
a small island of Malpelo was about 30 miles away. So much for pirates and
our vivid imagination! Quite a relief, though.
Following advise of cruising guides, we got our vegetables from a farmers
market located somewhere between Balboa and Panama City. You have to buy
bag quantities, but the prices are real cheap so it pays. Big mistake.
Buying bags, you do check the quality of the produce only superficially,
unless you want to spend a lot of time on it. On the top of it, while on
the launch transporting our provisions to “Sweet Weather” a big rain came.
So we are spending quite a bit of time drying, sorting, throwing away,
eating whatever before it spoils etc., etc. It is better to buy a high
quality produce to begin with and have less hassle later. On the positive
side, our diet is extraordinary high on fruits and vegetables these days.
Sunday, June 29, 65 miles to San Cristobal.
At 2014 GMT (1514 ship time) we crossed the Equator at 88*39.26’. A short
and modest celebration included opening a bottle of champagne, a gift from
a friend for this occasion. We are motor sailing to the San Cristobal
waypoint - about 65 miles to go. Last two days we were literally kept N of
San Cristobal by unfavorable winds and currents. Bewitched Islands they
are, indeed. The winds were to weak to fight the current (tacking), yet
strong enough to make motoring against them impractical, i.e. expensive
and uncomfortable. Right now we are making nice progress, but..que sera?
Tuesday, July 1, Wreck Bay, San Cristobal
After motoring all night, we eventually arrived here on Monday, early in
the morning. Check in formalities were very easy, we got a 20 day permit,
including Isla Isabella which was officially off limits for sailboats even
last year. ($70.- + $15/person visa, reportedly it is more expensive in
Academy Bay). Fausto, (taxi # 14, VHF channel 07, ph. 520-477, or ask for
him at Cooperativa Transportes “Islas Galapagos”), gave us an excellent
and inexpensive tour through the island. He was quite knowledgeable and
understood some English, even though he spoke only a little. He also
helped us with buying diesel (at $1.02/gal., vs. $1.63/gal. in Balboa),
and getting potable water at the hospital. We saw all the charming local
creatures: the obligatory galapagos (giant tortoise), iguanas and sea
lions and were taken to a couple of great vista points. Fresh vegetables
and fruits are available at the local farmers market - much cheaper and a
better quality than in Panama. A decent three course lunch was $2.- a
person. The island is being developed quite a bit lately to attract more
tourism: new roads, new galapageria, a couple of new hotels. Hopefully it
will for the good of the inhabitants, some 7000 of them and the rest of
the world. So many beautiful places have been completely spoiled by too
much tourism, though. We quite like it here, but being a bit late we plan
to go to Isla Isabella tomorrow.