Fai Tira Blog
18.00 UTC 4th November
Fai Tira still in Lanzarote. 28:54.99N 13:42.35W
saw us going separate ways. I went diving with a group of BWR guys and then to
the nudist beaches of Papagayo with Mike and Mary, whilst John and Dee went
exploring the island in a hire car. So first I will tell you about my day.
arrived at the dive centre which is based at the marina and the dive leader and
owner put us at our ease with his informative and helpful attitude. We donned
our gear and headed for the dive site by fast rib. It was a nice shallow first
dive for us all, as we were all a bit rusty not having dived for a while. We
saw a large shoal of Barracuda and Cuttle fish. The next dive was a bit more
testing. We were told about this big Grouper called Felix who was tame and
came up to you. This was correct. As soon as we left the vicinity of the boat
anchor this very large fish about a metre long came swimming up to us. It got
so close that I was able to touch it. Its mouth could have easily swallowed my
closed fist. What a fabulous experience.
after that a Leopard Shark swam by no more than ten feet away. We carried on
with the dive which was a lot deeper than the first and also had a fair bit of
current to contend with. What a great morning. Unfortunately I have no photos
of the dive as they are still in my camera.
meet Mike and Mary for lunch and then proceeded to Papagayo. This is now a
national park but you can only approach it by dirt road. The beaches there are
superb with lovely soft white sand. When I first visited Lanzarote this was
where all the nudists used to go, but now not one to be seen!!! Sorry Baz no
photos this year. Mike had a couple of dips in the sea as I slept in the sun
and Mary chilled out reading her book.
and Mary with clothes on.
the sun began to set we headed off to the Sunset bar which is situated on the
top of the pass which joins Playa Blanca to the rest of the island. We sat
there with a beer and watched the sun go down over the horizon. It
wasn’t the best sunset we have seen as it was a bit cloudy but the
location and spectacle was very nice.
from the Sunset bar. A
lovely meal. Thanks Mike and Mary.
then returned to the Marina where Mike, Mary and I had a very special meal in a
wonderful restaurant. We all agreed that Lanzarote is a special place and a we
all would visit again.
and Dee went off in there hire car to explore the north of the island. They
virtually did the same route has we had done on Sunday. They went to La Santa
and watched the surfing, then to Famara and then to Mirrador via Teguise and
day was quite tame by comparison. That is apart from the drama involved in
piloting a left hand drive car down public roads on the wrong side, for the
first time in my life.
being the experienced driver I am, I soon got the hang of it (only took about 8
hours) and then, after rearranging the front suspension geometry on one or two
kerbs, it eventually became a piece of cake.
with map in hand and a general knowledge of the good locations, we headed up
country, trying to avoid the main roads in an attempt to take in the smaller
villages in an effort to see more of the real side of this diverse community.
soon found ourselves travelling along minor roads that would easily fall under
the category of dirt track in the U.K., often wondering whether we might end up
in trying to do a three point turn in some ones back garden.
communities were often spread over quite long distances, with no real centre
and subsequently giving a lack of incentive to stop and explore. But even when
viewed from the confines of a passing car, the hardships of cultivation in such
baron, exposed albeit fertile, conditions, were obvious. And everywhere the
signs of ingenuity that we’d previously witnessed in the wine making
region, with plants growing in deep black pits, encased by volcanic dry stone
walls for protection.
attempts to seek out these skinny routes, was starting to prove difficult.
Although a serendipitous turn while stumbling through a village looking for a
scenic route around a volcano, had the effect of guiding us to small ghost like
hamlet on the edge of the Atlantic, where the beach was being bashed by huge
the height of the season, it was easy to imagine a thriving community, but this
is November and there were just two brave souls out there battling the elements
and we were treated to our own private display of energetic and sometimes
lone surfer Deserted
coastline became more dramatic the further north we progressed, with huge walls
of volcanic rock, starting in the sky and tumbling down to the sea, etched with
the effects of weather and erosion from millions of years of natures’
road along the coast eventually expired, due to the inability to climb a sheer
wall, forcing us further inland. We passed through the town of Teguise at
around lunch time, a good excuse for a stop. What a great move.
place is tucked beneath a hill overlooked by a fortress that dominates the
white walled buildings are linked by a warren of small streets, and every where
the minaret like spire of the church, stands proud on the skyline ensuring that
its’ presence can’t be ignored.
road side café beckoned. We were just going to have coffee, but the smells and
presentation of food, enticed us to indulge.
was simple stuff, but the flavours and setting fantastic. Potatoes de Canario,
bread, Mojo sauce. strong black coffee followed by cold beer, all consumed in
delightful surroundings and all at the price of six Euros for both of us. Style
, substance and value!!
of Teguise Fortress
on a hill
of view from the café Cactus against a wall
was difficult to leave. Every turn presented something to be photographed or
investigated, beautifully sculptured skylines, delicate cafes and obscure
was late in the afternoon when we left. The road took us through los Vallies, a
dramatic area of terraced gardens. We climbed steadily, before experiencing the
helter skelter drop, round hairpin bends ,that took us back down to a level
where our pulses had a chance to stabalise
final assent, up the narrow road, to the Mirador Del Rio was amazing, but
hardly preparation for the views to follow.
café bar with its’ sheet glass walls, allows uninterrupted views across
the Atlantic causeway to the coastline, marina and anchorages of the island of
La Graciosa, thousands of feet below, providing a sensation that, I imagine,
could easily verge on panic for the faint hearted.
was our day then. It was dark when we arrived back. Dee was leaving the next
day. Goodbyes are always emotional and never seem to get any easier, but I know
she enjoyed a trip that’s transformed her view of Lanzarote
Bye for now.
Pete and John