PACIFIC 14:32.48S 164:52.16W

Chantelle
Fri 30 May 2008 23:08
Hello Everyone
 
It's been a while since last up date but will attempt to put you in the picture now.
After the peaceful existence in Rangiroa Atoll (Tuomotus) arriving in Tahiti seemed like the busiest place on earth. It was nice to be back in civilisation again doing normal things such as visiting the hair dressers! Kate and Steve joined us on the 29th so had a few days together in Papeete before we set sail for Raiatea for the Pearl Regatta. We found a local bar (called a pub) which provided live music and colourful local characters to have a boogie with. The most talked about venue in Papeete was the Piano Bar notorious for it's clientelle - "lady boys". As usual we were just leaving as it was getting interesting! We did see the inner sanctum where the "cabaret" took place and were reliably informed by other Arc die hards that the show left little to the imagination.
WARC rally control along with Tahiti Tourism organised a days tour for us around the Island with a stop for lunch at the Paul Gaugin Museum restaurant. It was a great day out and has to be said a welcome relief to find we didn't have to pay a penny! Tahiti is split into two islands the main one being Tahiti Nuie (spelling?) and Tahiti Iti, the tour concentrated on the main Island, so as Kim had had an earlier failed expedition to Iti earlier in the week on the bus, we decided to hire a car and take a look. The main reason for wanting to visit  Iti is the famous (if you're into surfing) Teahupoo wave. The Billabong championships are held in this particular spot and we'd been informed that the pro surfers were rehearsing for the big event. It was actually surprising that we managed to get there at all as our hire car was on it's last legs (special deal)! By the time we'd returned the car John was unable to open his drivers side door and at one point we thought the lock was broken and we were going to have abandon it. Thankfully the air con worked! Once at Teahupoo we found a local guy to take us out in his boat to watch the "wave". Unfortunately we picked the wrong day and the "wave" was more of a "wavelette" but glad we went nevertheless.
So having seen most of the Island with Kate and Steve we decided to leave for the Island of Moorea, Oponuhua Bay. She'd been tempting us for a few days watching the sun setting on her majestic form! We arrived without incident - almost! The bay was so beautiful we were in some kind of a trance and before we knew it managed to ground ourselves (a first)! In our defense the chart plotter was somewaht misleading! There was one other yacht anchored in the bay, Blue Raven a Blue Water Rally boat (spared us some of the ignominy - at least not Arc boat). He tried to help us and took our stern anchor, buried it and then we tried to wind ourselves off. We had Steve on the boom, let all the way out bouncing up and down very athletically and Kate and Kim winching for all their lives were worth! (Come to think of it, what was Captain H doing?) All to no avail! In the end Steve dove in the water and came up with the solution and with some motoring and jiggling of the helm we were free! (Moral of story, always eye ball situation first if you can)! So safely anhcored we went ashore and had a brief look around. We found a shrimp farm and plenty of land crabs (not surprisingly). From here we thought we'd take a look at the reef just outside the bay and not content with grounding the big boat we did the very same thing with our dinghy! Oh well, nothing like a double whammy! Of course on this occassion we were oarless and torchless so JH plunged into the water and guided us to safety, which Kate and I were very grateful for as we were only wearing flip flops which don't work on a coral bottom under water!
Grounding debacles over, the following morning we set sail for Raiatea where the Pearl Regatta was due to start from, arriving in the early hours! There was a welcoming committee on the quay side for Regatta participants and much to our dismay/amusement the accompanying cocktails were in short supply, some of the staff having got there first! The tension was mounting and after yet more money exchanging hands we were officially listed and advised to start planning our strategy! At least we had a map by now! The race was spread over four days and would take us to the neighbouring Island of Tahaa and then across to Bora Bora. The info sheet spoke of "technical legs" designed to "harass" the crew! Kate and Kim discussed their "anti-harassment" strategy, and devised a secret weapon ready to deploy, thankfully not needed! It was a smooth operation with minimal shouting and most of the hassle came from some of the other boats who seemingly had next to no knowledge of racing rules! We were expecting a cruising class to be in place to account for all the extra weight on board but that never materialised, however we still managed a respectable finish. We were the third WARC boat in, on each of the four races and 18th overall. So not bad! No trophies, just great to sail the "Olympic Triangle" in Bora Bora!
The evenings entertainment after each race has kind of merged into a big blur!  They promised us festive dinners and frenzied shows and for the most part that's what we got, along with very rowdy, boisterous sailors! At one event on the Island of Tahaa the skippers were all blessed by the local chief (?) who tied a leaf around their wrist to ward off the evil spirits. This was then transferred to the boat - only problem - it seemed to ward off all wind and wild life as well. JH in his new state of beatitude was then asked to perform the Hakka with the other skippers. They looked like a bunch of "little boys lost"! Funny to watch!
John and Kim had a great dive in Manta Pass despite not seeing any Rays, apparantely a bit early in the year. We hitched a lift off another Dinghy - 30 hp engine (ours is 8) and planed there in next to no time. That's the way to travel!
We had a guided tour around the Pearl Beach Resort "Manea Spa". As Kate and Steve decided against taking out a second mortgage to cover cost of staying in the hotel they opted for a session at the spa. They emerged looking suitably chilled and glowing and even managed to smuggle out a goody bag for John and Kim. Steve intoxicated by the whole "aura of Bora Bora" booked himself in for a tatoo! Very nice too!
Before we knew it, it was time for Steve and Kate to be leaving. It was great having them here, we couldn't have done the Pearl Regatta without them and they were a great help on the boat. JH is now reduced to "girlie" technical help! Oh dear!
After much deliberation over whether to sail onto Rarotonga (South Cook Islands) or Suworrow (North Cook Islands) the weather made the decision for us. Although there would be more opportunity to replenish at Rarotonga there was some nasty looking systems lurking. We had some feed back from other boats heading that way, talking of 50+knots. So Suworrow it was and we're so pleased we went there. A true desert island, not a satellite dish in sight and a real sense of "splendid isolation" (just had to pretend the rest of the fleet weren't there).  Suworrow has been declared a National Park and the island is only inhabited for half the year by the caretaker and his family. They had been there just a week before we arrived. They were very welcoming and hospitable - lovely people. John (caretaker) organised a tour of some of the Motus around the Atoll which are popular bird nesting sights. We were surrounded - as most people commented it was like a scene out of Alfred Hitchcock's film The Birds. The water here is the clearest we've seen so far, like looking through glass! This is definitely a "highlight" of the trip and would love someday to return. There is no access other than boat and long may it remain so, it is one of earths little gems and best kept a secret (if only that were possible). Mandy - rally control, encouraged people to spend sometime helping with a clear up operation as a cyclone had passed through here earlier in the year and destroyed the hut and generally caused lots of damage to the landscape. On our tour we also collected as much flotsam and jetsam as possible, there was a real concern to try and leave only "footprints" in this remote and enchanting island.
We said our goodbyes to the family on Thursday morning (29th) and set off for our next destination Niue. So we are currently motoring along, as very little wind but quite a swell developing. Hoping to arrive sometime Monday.
We are now reduced to two hand lines for fishing, having lost two lures (favourites) and all line off reel. Cptn H not a happy bunny but at least we still have plenty of smash potato on board!
The picture attached includes our new crew mate Joanne who joined us in Bora Bora. She's been sailing with the fleet since St Lucia and decided to give Chantelle a try! Good to have an extra pair of hands and someone else to talk to!
Well folks that's all for now! We are expecting to have wifi at Niue, so if this is the case will download some more pictures.
Hope everyone well back home and summer has finally kicked in!
Take care all
Chantelle
xxx

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