Papeete in Tahiti A
Chantelle
Fri 25 Apr 2008 01:23
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Hello All
We arrived in Rangiroa on Saturday 12th - just when you think it can't get any better there's another jewel waiting to dazzle you with her charms. We are anchored off the Kia Ora Hotel - a honeymooners paradise - it's the real deal just like the post cards. They say every picture tells a story (see attached) what more can I say.
We came across from the Marquesas with our friends Blue Flyer (Hugh, Val and Shin), safety in numbers. It was reassuring to be in radio contact as John and Kim were sailing double handed for the first time, David our other crew member having decided to jump ship at a moments notice in Nuku Hiva. Thank you to Blue Flyer for keeping an eye on us. Have to say glad to be leaving behind the notorious noseeums (nasty little no no flys that feast off you)!
We were unsure what to expect approaching the pass entering into the Rangiroa Atoll. Apparantely it is one of the larger entrances in the Tuomotos so a good place to start. With a combination of tidal information from friends back home and good luck we timed it just right and breezed through the gap in the reef, no problem. That same evening we took a walk back to the entrance to watch the sun go down and were surprised to see how conditions had changed. Very turbulent waters, for us not navigable. The tide ebbing from the lagoon meeting with the NE swell was creating a pyramid wave effect, great for the dolphins but not us. The tidal race can reach 7+ knots and would have tossed us around like a cork. It was another breath taking moment to watch the dolphins' spectacular acrobatics (see pictures), cavorting about the water which by now was a rich feeding ground. Wonderful to see them in their own environment, no circus tricks here!
As our anchoring experience is limited and only being two handed, (ideally need a look out up the mast around coral reefs), we decided we would stay put in Rangiroa and explore its delights. So we discovered the local Pearl Farm, Vineyard (yes!) and the beautiful Blue Lagoon (a lagoon within a lagoon). The local guides attract the local wild life with scraps from lunch, so we witnessed a shark feeding frenzy, at this point from the safety of the boat I hasten to add. Before that we'd been in the water swimming with them (before feeding time???) and earlier when paddling, they were circling around our ankles - what trust! We were informed they were Black Tipped Reef Sharks and Lemon Sharks and apparantely harmless!
Blue Flyer treated us to a days sail on their Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 49 - a real eye opener for Kim who so far has only sailed on Chantelle. Those electric winches are the business! Push button sailing certainly has its advantages. It's incredible how much bigger the boat is when in reality 'only' an extra 7 feet in length. Anyway we returned the hospitality and 'squeezed' them into Chantelle for a Bond evening! All the boys John, Hugh and Shin wore their bow ties, no martinis but local wine from the local vineyard at local prices (expensive)!
We had one dive session on the Coral Garden outside the lagoon on the reef. The highlight was seeing a Manta Ray - majestic! Shin, Blue Flyer's crew member took some great underwater shots (see pics). Also some more pictures of the dolphins at play. He has also treated us to some wonderful Sushi which he caught and prepared himself. Yummie!
The time came to move on and we departed yesterday (Sat 19th) at mid day. The lagoon was mill pond flat - barely a ripple and the water so clear. We were sad to be leaving this little haven of tranquility. Having spoken to the local dive people they suggested the other pass (Avotura) as a safer passage, so we opted for that. We passed through with ease and started on our journey to Papette in Tahiti. Rather than risking arriving in Papette in the dark we are taking it easy and sailing over two nights. Last night was perfect! A full moon all night, calm seas and just enough wind to keep us moving. Heavenly! Todays sail is a different story, uncomfortable, wet and rather rolly. Oh well, you take the rough with the smooth!
We decided to bring our arrival date forward as Chantelle is need of some attention. Our fridge is only semi working and we have a problem with the water pump, not to mention the VHF and the list goes on. Hey hoy!
Actually looking forward to visiting a launderette (longing for 'clean, non salty' clothes) and rumour has it John is taking Kim to a pearl shop with his credit card! Mmmmmmmmmmm!
Looking forward to Steve and Kate's arrival at the end of April. Will be much more comfortable with just the four of us, so even though we were not expecting to be two handed, every cloud has a silver lining!
Thursday 24th - We are now berthed at Quay Side, Papeete in Tahiti. Bit close to the main road but thankfully quiet at night. We've spent the past three days on repairs. Glad to say that jobs are happening pretty quickly. Fridge is now repaired so we now have ice with our G&Ts!! Tonight we are treating ourselves to a stay at the Tiara Tahiti Hotel - can't wait. The people here seem very friendly. We were offered a lift to the local supermarket when we stopped to ask for directions. Ironically the driver was from the Marquesas where the promised friendliness and offers of lifts somehow did not materialise.
We now have a decent wifi connection (just bought a signal booster which certainly helps), so have uploaded lots of images to keep you in the picture.
Hope you enjoy.
Wishing you all well back home - we've had more reports of snow back in UK!
Take care all.
Kim and John sweltering in Tahiti
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