BALI Harbour Benoa
Chantelle
Tue 9 Sep 2008 05:27
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Hello to all you "folks back home", blog update
long overdue so here goes. We are currently
sailing our way to Bali in baking sunshine. After four days of hard
motoring we are at long last sailing, flying the big kite
(spinnaker)......sometime later, 09/09. We are now less than 20hrs away from
Benoa Harbour Bali. Trying to time arrival to coincide with sun up and marina
office opening.
We said goodbye to Fiji on Sat 5th July, heading
for Tanna in Vanuatu. Tanna in Tannese translates as "earth" - will make a
change from the sea! We made an early start to avoid grounding ourselves
coming out of Musket Cove marina (very shallow at low water). This was
an official racing leg, so a start time had been organised by Rally Control for
11am. That time came and went, a postponement was called while we waited for a
rather nasty rain squall to pass through. The visibility was so poor it was felt
too hazardous to try and navigate the inner reef. We waited and waited until
finally at 1pm we were given the green light. A local motor boat escorted
the fleet, true flotilla style through the inner, and up to the outer reefs
where we then on our own, our start time having been noted by Rally Control. For
the first 5 hours we had no wind, plenty of rain and it was grey! Thoughts
drifted to home as the engine droned on! Finally at about 2am the wind
picked up and we were sailing comfortably averaging 7 knots. All the time the
sea was building and come the morning the wind had accelerated to 27-32 knots,
gusting to 40. And that's how it remained along with "devilish seas". The old
abdominals had a thorough work out as we were thrown around. We arrived at Port
Resolution Tuesday morning and at first were dubious about the anchorage. Not
until we were safely past the reef and tucked up inside did we believe that it
would offer sufficient protection, but thankfully it was fine, a bit rolly but
relatively comfortable. On our approach we could see great clouds of gas
and debris being blown from the volcano Mount Yasir, which formed the
backdrop to the bay. For those coming in at night the spectacle was enhanced, as
the glowing "lava lumps" that were tossed into the air were more
visible. We were reminded of films such as Krakatoa and Fantasia - half expected
to be envoloped as the mountain unfurled it's flanks and ensconced us into her
molten core. Anyway back to reality - it was truly an awesome sight even in
daylight. Strangely enough once inside the bay the only hint of any volcanic
activity lay in the swirling mists deep in the hillside across the bay, that
would occasionally rise up and indicate the hot springs that lay
beneath.
So yet again the dinghy is pumped up and we make
our way ashore - there's no sign of a village just a hut on the hillside which
the World Arc sponsored and was recently built. Up a very windy, steep path
through the forest and we found ourselves immediately amongst the local
villagers and beside the yacht club. Although there was the usual mountain of
paperwork it all past smoothly with little formality, the officials being very
helpful and smiling. They had even organised a mobile bank so we were able to
exchange money. Local currency is called Vatu and we exchanged £1 for 170
Vatus. Not that there was anything to buy here. This place is like nothing we've
seen to date. Very rural, traditional dwellings (straw like huts, some breeze
block here and there) and people living as they were hundreds of years ago.
Water pumps had been installed through out the village but electricity seemed to
be confined to the Yacht Club and powering the local village green phone. Out
walking we heard it ring and a local "local" came dashing out of her hut to
answer. The other piece of technology to have found its way into their lives was
- yes you've guessed - mobile phones. The crazy paradox is summed up by the
following incident. Ed a retired GP off WARC boat Into the Blue befriended one
of the local women who told him of her concern over a sick baby in the village.
He made a house call and it was dark. All the family resided in the one
room hut and with no electricity there was no light, except
the glow that came from the Fathers mobile phone whilst Ed made his
examination. Incredible! The baby recovered!
A ceremony had been organised to welcome us to the
village and the locals had gone to a lot of trouble to make us feel welcome. The
exchanging of gifts is a main feature of the proceedings, so we all dug deep
into our supplies and contributed what we thought would be useful. Sad to say we
think our contribution was poor in comparison to what they'd prepared for us.
Woven baskets of fruit and veg (most unidentifiable), hats, baskets, feathery
things and not least a live suckling pig which all the skippers managed to avoid
when collecting their presents. Thankfully Kieran (rally control guy) took the
initiative and stepped forward and removed the poor squealing creature. There
was a BBQ in the evening - no one dared ask the question - Kim's just glad she's
a veggie! The event was the most colourful to date and hopefully the villagers
enjoyed themselves as much as we did. There seemed a genuine warmth and
willingness to be friendly and this was punctuated by an invitation from Jocelyn
a local Mum who invited us to a BBQ and to meet her family. What a lovely way to
spend our last night in Port Resolution.
No trip to Tanna would be complete without the hike
up the local Volcano Yassur. We arrived just before dusk and trudged our way up
to a safe viewing point, relatively speaking. Don't know what the odds are but
an American Tourist died back in the 90's from flying molten lava. Happy to
report that we left unscathed. It's a very humbling experience standing before
such an almighty force, suddenly feel very small and insignificant. We've had
some powerful seas to deal with but even they seemed like a ripple in a pond
compared to the power of the eruptions spewing forth. Bonfire night will never
seem the same after this!
On our way to Yassur we stopped at a Kastom village
where ancient ancestral legacies are kept alive.This took the form of wearing
nambas (penis sheaths) and grass skirts and much stomping of feet and singing.
The locals that is, not us! We were seated in a clearing in the forest, where
opposite, a massive banyan tree formed the gateway to a tunnel, out of which the
villagers emerged. Although we felt very much like a tourist their performance
seemed very genuine and meaningful to them. Afterwards they showed us how to
make fire and the children wrapped themselves in and around the many vines up in
the banyan tree.
The other great past time here is drinking Kava,
which has a reputation for being the strongest throughout Melanesia. The
Nakamal, traditionally only attended by men (but nobody seems to mind the ladies
partaking) is still very much a part of every day life - bit like going to the
pub back home!
Our time came to leave the safe haven of Tanna and
head for the more cosmopolitan capital of Port Vila on the island Efate. It was
hard to believe we were in the same country, the change was so dramatic, most
strikingly and much to our relief the Bon Marche supermarket! Lots of nice
goodies! We had an overnight sail and were feeling pretty tired but this
deterred us not one bit - off to the races we went! A one day annual event how
could we not! We spent a good few hours soaking up the very colourful atmosphere
including the "mother hubbard" dresses which the locals wore - huge floral
frocks billowing in the wind! The horses themselves were a mixed bag and
only raced for this one day a year which made for great hilarity. The
commentator a well know celebrity from New Zealand wasted no time in mentioning
the local abattoir, literally round the corner! With a glass of Moet and some
great company we had a fine day at the races.
We had a great stroke of luck as well and
it wasn't winning a bet it was meeting a young couple who then sailed with
us to Cairns. Victor who was originally sailing to Cairns on
Chantelle had to leave in Efate due to lack of an Aussie visa, instead we
took Ben and Sarah, top crew! They joined us on the next island we visited Santo
Espiritu, Port Santo.
Before leaving Port Vila we had the usual WARC get
together and Chantelle was awarded a first in our class for the last official
racing leg. We're not really competitive but still it feels good!
Another over night sail and we were anchored off
Beach Resort in Luganville, on Island Santo Espiritu. The town was a lesser
version of Port Vila but the main attraction was the diving here. JH had two
dives one on SS President Coolidge and another at Million Dollar
Point, while the rest of us snorkelled. Million Dollar Point is quite
unique and the result of American presence in WWII. An offer was made to Vanuatu
government to purchase all military hardware but they refused, consequently
the General negotiating the deal had a "hissy fit" and the whole shooting
match went over the side, a burial at sea! The place chosen was relatively
shallow and makes for great snorkelling. The Coolidge, originally built as
cruise ship was commandered by the war effort, stripped out and converted
to a war ship. She met her end in 1942, hitting a series of land
mines.
Back on land John and Kim went horse riding which
was a welcome change from being on/in the water. Having said that we did ford a
rather deep mangrove inlet and some folk had wet tootsies by the end. We rode
across part of a 10,000 hectare cattle farm, reputed to be some of the finest
beef in this part of the world. The animals are raised in a very stress free
manner which apparantely improves the quality of the meat. They are transported
down river for slaughter on huge barges which from time to time lose their cargo
and the herd end up swimming - not so stress free! We crossed some lovely palm
groves and dabbled at the waters edge along some beautiful beaches. Thoroughly
enjoyed ourselves.
The time came for us to leave our island
cruising and head for a new continent - Australia! We departed for Cairns
on Tues 22nd July and set sail for the 1240 nm across the Coral Sea to the Great
Barrier Reef. Great sailing, winds averaging 20knots, all going well until we
had a hull fitting connected to front loo crack, so consequently we
were taking in water. As we were on a strong beat first action was to alter
course and take the pressure off, so we went down wind for a while. John and Ben
were able to fix problem temporarily and thankfully it held, that just left
clean up operation there being a few inches of water down below. Using electric
bilge pump and hand pump we managed after what seemed forever to pump most of
the water clear. As a result of this we added an extra 12 hours onto our
journey, but no matter at least we were still afloat. This was a testing
leg for other WARC boats too and by comparison our problem paled into
insignificance. Wizard a Simonis 56 from South Africa suffered a
dismasting. Fortunately no casualties, but unfortunately not enough fuel and
unable to rig effective jury rig. Yacht Strega came to his rescue and
transferred fuel along with many other boats. We were on standby.
Ironically Strega then suffered complete engine failure and for the last part of
their journey rafted along side Tallulah Ruby who took them into port.
However if we thought this was bad, there was worse to come. Asolare an
Amel 54 owned by Peter Turner ran into an unchartered reef 93 miles NW
of the Willis Group. His boat is still there but fortunately he and his
crew were air lifted to safety. Not salvageable he is now battling it out
with his insurance co. He has the fleets heart felt sympathies and is
sorely missed!
We arrived in Cairns in the early hours of the
morning, having successfully negotiated the Grafton Pass, desperately searching
for some warm clothing to wear.It was freezing. We assumed being inside barrier
reef and heading for the mainland that the temperature would increase not
decrease. The wind strength averaged 20+ knots and it was cold! Our original
first port was Yorkeys Knob but this had been changed to Cairns itself. We
moored on a buoy 4am and waited for our call to the customs dock. It came
quickly and by 11am we had cleared quarantine and customs and were free to go
ashore. All very friendly and efficient and not much waste at all! On Friday the
boat came out onto the hard at Norship Boat Yard and John and Kim started work
in earnest. There was much to be done. We booked ourselves into a hotel for the
duration, which needless to say was a welcome change. Re anti-fouled and all
repairs done Chantelle was back in the water the following Tuesday and we were
planning our passage up through the reef to Thursday Island our next
official rendevous. We were hoping to leave on the Thursday but everyday a
strong wind weather warning was issued, so we delayed our departure and did some
sight seeing. You can't come all this way to Queensland and not see a "saltie"
(sea water croc). They get a huge amount of publicity usually in the form of
warnings! In actual fact they're difficult to spot, being well camoflagued,
surprise being the best form of attack. We envisaged stepping across their backs
Crocodile Dundee style but sightings are few and far between, so off to the croc
park it was. They truly are prehistoric but don't let that fool you they have
the capacity to learn a persons routine and if you're in croc territory, say
camping, you don't go down to the river to wash your dishes at the same time
each day. You may find it's a one way trip if you do. They advise a safe
distance from waters edge is 3 metres - inevtiably we heard of the gruesome
tales where people had chosen to ignore advice and they were chomped. They are
magnificent beasts and can well understand why they' ve been deified in some
cultures. They grow to 6 metres and are capable of leaping out of the water,
using their tales to propel them upwards.
We had a trip to Daintree National Park and driving
home took the scenic route through the rain forest and then onto the flat lands
the otherside of the Great Divide Mountain Range. The contrast of landscape was
fascinating, even saw some wild roos. We had an organised days diving which was
somewhat different to our expectations. The journey to the site was incredibly
lumpy and took 2 hours.Once there we were still surprised by the amount of
swell, being inside the reef we were expecting calmer waters. Nothing amazing to
report only Kim's first sighting of giant clams. Having some extra days on our
hands enabled to get to know Cairns a little better. It has the feel of being on
permanent holiday, very laid back and we liked it.
Thursday 14th August and we were all set to start
our cruise inside the reef up to Darwin. Departing Marlin Marina for Lizard
Island we planned an overnight sail, arriving 143 miles later at 7.00am. A
pleasant trip with steady winds 15-20 knots, just having to be careful of those
scattered reefs. Again we were surprised expecting reefs to be
neatly laid out - as someone said a chain of caterpillars in an orderly
queue. So ever mindful of Peter's catastrophie we weaved our way through.
Thursday Island is a glittering jewel, best appreciated from the top of Cook's
Look. Looking down over the island onto the Lagoon and the perfect aqua marine
coloured waters, surely must be heaven on earth. Julia and Kim slogged to the
top and slid back down, a few bumps and scratches but well worth it. Our dinghy
ride back to the boat was a bit more eventful as the tide was running. Between
launching the boat and starting the engine we had drifted over a coral reef.
Julia jumped out and very carefully picked her way through, pulling the
boat trying to avoid damaging the coral. Eventually we were in deep enough
water to start the engine and head out to Chantelle. On Saturday evening we
celebrated Andys B.Day from Tallulah Ruby on the island and had a BBQ. A
birthday to remember. We found a treasure chest, Pandoras Box, full of
useful items including a visitors book. It claims to have been there since Cptn
Cooks mutineers arrived off the Bounty. You might have expected the place to be
crawling with lizards - we saw one or two, it does however have the status of a
national park.
We left Lizard Island for Thursday Island on Sunday
17th, a trip of 350 miles. It was a fantastic sail, the peak being 40.2
knots rounding Cape Melville across to the Flinders group of islands
on Sunday 5pm. Although not the calm waters we imagined, it was great fun.
We opted for the Albany Pass to take us through to Thursday Island and our
timing was just right with 3 knots of tide under us. Would hate to try and
negotiate when full tide running against. Last bit of tricky navigation was
Hovel Bar, again good timing ensured we had enough water under us. Our anchorage
was just off Horn Island a more sheltered option. It was a short ride across the
bay to Thursday Island on the local Ferry. Our time here was very short, 2 days,
so after re-provisioning we hung around town with the locals. There was a
definite edge to this place, sort of frontier hicksville. You could almost
imagine the tumble weed rolling through town. No less then fourteen
different religions were represented in various Churches all with varying
architectural styles, some just a shack. Impressive for such a small community.
Thursday 21st and we were off to Darwin, another official leg, with an official
start. With 830 miles to go we were hoping for a smooth journey, alas not to be.
Our passage took us through the Torres Strait, across Gulf of Carpentaria, over
Cape Wessel into the Arafura Sea around the Cobourg Peninsula and Cape Don and
finally south into the Van Diemen Gulf and onto Darwin. Average true wind 29
knots with big seas and steep sided waves. It was hard going and unfortunately
Julia had to take to her bed, but glad to say made full recovery! Our timing
regards favourable currents on this occasion was out - the alternative was
uncomfortable anchorages so decided to push on. Consequently coming throught the
Howarth Passage 3-4 knots of tide against us. Some hard motoring required. We
arrived at Frances Bay, Darwin Tuesday 8am and being the obedient WARCers
we are we headed for our allotted anchorage, miles from anywhere and anyone.
Quarantine were not taking any chances! As it happened we were inspected (hull
for particular mussels), flushed out (inlet/outlets treated with special
solution) and cleared with quarantine by 11am and free to go ashore, a dinghy
ride of 20 + minutes. Quite a ride. Chantelle was required to remain at her
current anchorage for 14 hours to allow for flush through to take effect. In
this time no flushing the loo! WARC had organised the Duck Pond Marina as a
suitable marina for us to berth. During the next morning we were running around
hiring a car, visiting trading estates, chandleries etc for yet more
boat stuff and we came across Duck Pond Marina. Suffice to say it's hard to
imagine why this was ever thought to be a suitable marina. We along
with the majority of the fleet organised our own berthing at Tipperary Marina.
How lucky we were that they could, and were willing, to accommodate us
all!
Thursday evening and we met up with Jackie who
crewed with us across the Atlantic. His memory was still very fresh regarding
the voyage! Shame we didn't have longer together.
John and Kim, duties behind us took a drive to
Litchfield National Park to see some Northern Territories sites. The most
striking and not seen before were the magnetic termite mounds, some 3mtrs+ high!
The stuff of David Attenborough programmes. We visisted Wangi and Florence Falls
where, although at your own risk, croc signs everywhere, you could swim. The
other great national park is Kakadu. As this was further inland and much bigger
John and Kim decided to book an organised tour. In hindsight a DIY job with 4x4
and aircon would have worked much better, not least as between the tour operator
AAT Kings and Tourism Top End booking agent they messed up our booking. If you
should find yourself in these parts do not recommend you use either. Having said
that we're pleased we went, even though trip cut short. Saw plenty of Aboriginal
rock art at Nourlangie, cruising on Yellow Water to see crocs and lots of bird
life. Witnessed the food chain in action. Saltie chasing wading bird trying
to swallow fish, being harassed further by hawk interested in snatching fish.
Somehow the croc and hawk left the scene disappointed and the little guy won! We
visited Warradjan an Aboriginal Cultural Centre and also drove into Arnhem Land
to see an Aboriginal township, although we weren't allowed to leave the bus. At
lunchtime we stopped at a Billabong where we picknicked and had our own
"dreamtime". Aboriginal culture asks the three Rs of its visitors: Respect,
Reflection and Remembering. The landscape kind of demands this of you. The
aboriginal people themselves are a quiet, shy retiring people who prefer to keep
themselves to themselves. Although they do not live off the land in their
nomadic lifestyle as they did, they often go walkabouts from their "stations" to
commune with nature and do their thing. Our trip concluded with a visit to
an open cast Uranium mine - a vast swathe in the countryside. Australia is rich
in minerals but also highly protected. On our way back to Jabiru we stopped at
the wetlands and crossed South Alligator River where the crocs were cruising
round the eddies fishing for a small bite.
The WARC organised an official reception at Darwin
Naval Base on HMS Coonwara which made for a pleasant evening. Also on our last
night we were the guests of the Indonesian Embassy who laid on a cultural
evening for us.
So yet again just as we're finding our way around
it's time to move on. Darwin had a very different feel to Cairns - the Northern
Territories still retaining some of that "frontier" ambience. Having been
destroyed by Cyclone Tracy in 1974 there is much construction in and around
town, so is still in its infancy.
September 3rd and Leg 15 to Bali commences at
midday. 990 miles across the Timor Sea and into the Indian Ocean.
So here we are up to date 7 nights at sea. On this
occassion have been struggling to find enough wind, our best day 15-18 knots,
reefed main and big spinnaker, making 8 knots over the ground. Pity it only
lasted for a few hours. So far we have sailed south of following Islands in
Indonesia. Timor, Roti, Pu Pu Sawu, Sumba, Pulau Sumbawa, Lombok just coming
past now and tomorrow Nusa Penida and finally Bali. Cold coming into Australia
we are now sweltering approaching Bali.
Our itinerary has changed as we are no longer
stopping at Chagos Indian Ocean. This gives us extra time in Bali and Mauritius.
We are now due to depart Bali on September 19th, arriving between 25-27th Sept
in Cocos Keeling. 1110 miles. Cocos Keeling to Mauritius 2,330 (no stop at
Chagos) departing 28th September arriving approx. 13th October. Departure date
from Mauritius remains same at Saturday 25th October. Will keep you
posted!
John announced the other day that he doesn't like
fishing - well every picture tells a story and we think he's telling porkies!
(see attached).
Hope this puts you in the picture. Would love to
hear any news from home. Thanks to everyone for emails - sorry to those of you
who we haven't replied to. Will try soonest.
Take care all.
Love
Chantelle
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