(No.9) Lisbon culture
Catou
Paul and Sylvie Tucker
Sat 24 Jul 2010 18:05
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Friday 23rd July ( At
Lisbon) We decided on the Belem area to start - with
some of it's big attractions. We had to try and comprehend the
trams/bus tickets first, and then discovered that Lisbon still runs some amazing
and beautiful old fashioned trams - it's like a time warp when you first
see them. I was very disappointed therefore, when a modern tram rolled
around the corner and we stepped aboard - until I realised that it
was fully air-conditioned - it was already very hot by mid-morning
(appoaching 30 deg C). First we visited the 'Monument to the Discoverers' -
indeed a grand monument of stone that juts out over the Tagus river bank, and
is shaped like a caravel riding the seas with it's sails billowing in the
wind. Prince Henry the Navigator on the bows and a number of famous
Portuguese navigators, explorers, astronomers, map-makers and cartographers
behind him. Very impressive stuff actually. I thought, for a 1960's
creation, it was very moving. We also took a lift to the top and had a
wonderful view of the Tagus river up and down stream.
Then we walked to the beautiful Torre de Belem
(Tower of Belem). A truly beautiful building, built in 1515 to
defend the entrance to the Tagus - a must for any visitor to Lisbon. Every
tourist in Portugal was there with us, but it was well worth the
scrum.
Next it was to the Maritime museum. We came
in through the back entrance, having taken the wrong road, and were stunned to
walk into an enormous 'warehouse' full of boats and royal barges. It
included an enormous royal barge that was last used for Queen
Elizabeth ll when she visited Lisbon in 1957. Then into the main
museum. Though I'd never seen a real astrolabe before (forerunner of the
sextant) by the time we had reached the end, I had astrolabe
fatigue! We then went on to see the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos
(Basilica), a UNESCO site and built in 16th C to commemorate the wealth Portugal
gained from the East - and in particular the life of Vasco Da Gama and his great
voyages of discoveries. And, as you entered the church, there on your left
was the tomb of the great man himself - I was always fascinated to learn of his
expeditions, so it was wonderful to see the great man's tomb. The
building was a wonderful piece of architecture with a stunning vaulted roof
that was as high as I have ever seen I think. The enormous stone pillars
were heavily carved with nautical themes. Then we FOUND a chandlery -
that was well stocked - with charts! I shook the manager's hand and told
him it was the only chandlery that we had found on the whole coast! We
bought a new boat hook to replace the one that got lost overboard yesterday when
sailing up the Tagus.
Saturday 24th July (At
Lisbon) day 2 of sightseeing. It is fearfully hot and
so we are having to try and keep indoors and travel between sights. We
started with an amazing museum of old coaches - they were beautiful.
Apparently the world's greatest collection, and I could believe it (though every
coach museum might say that). There were coaches belonging to aristocracy
as well as royalty, but the most amazing was one that Portugal gave to The
Vatican as a gift (though it seems to have found it's way back here
again). As we were walking out, just by the exit door was an open coach,
with what appeared to be bullet holes in it - then we discovered that it
was! It was the coach that King Carlos and the crown prince were
assassinated in during the 1908 revolution that eventually
turned Portugal to a Republic! Grim stuff!
We then went to the old Royal Palace - it was almost
deserted, but it was a good 5 euro's worth each. Strange, I kept thinking
all these places were free to visit, and I told Sylvie that the guide book said
they were free - but we were always being charged. Then I re-looked
at the book and it says: admission fee NOT free! The palace
was a show of extraordinary opulence! No wonder the locals had a
revolution - all the photos of the king made him look very pompous, and his
queen had long been accused of extreme extravagance. I have some sympathy
with the Portuguese people. Better keep me out of Buckingham
Palace!
We are wilting in the heat! May have to put to sea
to cool down tomorrow!
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