The Last 200 Miles

Audaciter
ItchyFingers
Mon 19 Dec 2011 19:58
So,

I was writing a blog pre-empting our arrival in Antigua about 200 miles away saying how proud I was and how well the boat was handling when, at about 10pm I hear a shout from Dickon saying there is no response in the steering. These things always happen at night! We all rushed on deck and our worst fear was that we had lost the rudder. Once we had confirmed that this wasn't the case, which if it had been would have meant that we were truly fucked, we set about trying to fix it. We had to get everything out of the aft lockers and really get amongst it. Nobody panicked and everyone stepped up.

The base plate that connects the helm to the rudder had come loose and dropped down, which is fixable. The annoying thing is that the auto pilot is connected to the rudder and would still steer it but we have been having problems with it because the battery that powers it was left to drain too low so it is knackered. We therefore had to connect our Jury rudder which is pretty much an oversized crowbar to a block just in front of the helm and use it like an old school tiller. Steering now became very intense as you couldn't get much purchase on it. Meanwhile Gareth and George were down below trying to reconnect the plate. They soon stopped when the tiller slammed across and nearly sheared Gareth's finger off! They realised that it was too hard to fix and we carried on with the tiller. I cannot express how physically hard this was due to the amount of pressure on it. We were mainly using our legs such was the force with a rope tied around a winch to help. We are all finding it very hard to walk at the moment and we are properly battered. Much recuperation needed!

It takes me back to the blog I was writing which was how proud I am of everyone on this journey. Gareth has been an amazing skipper, very focused and calm, George is George and is amazing, Dickon has learn't a lot and coped with everything thrown at him brilliantly and I have now got the patience of Jobe and have a new level of confidence. It has been mentally and physically tough but we did it. They say, and I love that phrase because who the hell are 'they', that crossing the Atlantic is 10% exhilaration, 10% terror, and 80% boredom. Well we have been extremely privileged to do it in our own yacht with good friends. Of course there has been ups and downs and slight moments of madness but it has been an absolute joy. I would say that I haven't felt scared once in this boat, apprehensive maybe, but not scared. That is generally down to the dismasting last year. Whenever you hear creaks and groans in the rigging you can't help but stress. But this rig has proved itself and the worry is dwindling.

'They' also say that crossing the Atlantic is the equivalent in wear and tear as 7 seasons on the Solent and that it takes 7 years to know your boat. Well that is because most people just sail a few times in the summer and sit in marinas doing bugger all. We know this boat inside out and can pretty much fix most things on it. The phrase 'there are no problems just solutions' really rings true and you have to be incredibly pragmatic about situations as they arrive. Shit is going to happen and there is no one to help when you are a thousand miles from land so you have no choice. It is a very liberating feeling.

When we arrived at the Antiguan customs pontoon we were obviously buzzing. This soon came to an abrupt halt when Gareth came back shaking his head. The customs officer wanted to see a stamped clearance certificate saying that we had left Cape Verde and that without it we may have to leave Antiguan waters. You can imagine the shock and despair, after doing 2100 miles, 200 without steering, and spending 15 days on the boat. This seemed crazy because when we arrived in Cape Verde they signed us in and out because we were only there for 3 days. They stamped our passports and everything but the guy at customs said 'it is not my problem'. So basically Gareth had to sign a declaration saying what happened in Cape Verde and they would fax it to their superiors. If they didn't accept it we would have to leave Antiguan waters straight away. We had to wait an agonising half an hour to find out. You can imagine our disappointment after the epic journey and knowing that George's girlfriend was arriving in three hours and my girlfriend and her brother were due to arrive in three days. Talk about highs and lows! Gareth charmed them and eventually they let us in. It was probably just a power trip for the guy but fuck me, that was not needed!

Anyway, Antigua is beautiful and we are having an amazing time. We are going tuna and sailfish fishing tomorrow and then hiring a 22 foot speedboat for 3 days to go and explore the island. Get in!

I will blog occasionally, but it will start again properly when we set off on the next trip to Panama. In the mean time I will put pictures up.

Love to all family and friends and speak soon xxx





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